Complex drivers of reef-fronted beach change
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2021
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University of Hawaii at Manoa
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Royal Hawaiian Beach in Waikīkī plays an essential role in Hawai‘i’s tourism-based economy. To inform development of management policies, we conduct two years of weekly ground and aerial surveys (April 2018 to February 2020) to track change on this chronically eroding beach. We use multiple linear regressions, Self-Organizing Maps (a form of cluster analysis), remotely sensed nearshore sand fields, hydrodynamic modelling, and monitoring of key physical processes to identify the principal drivers of beach change. Our results show 12 months of accretion (+2400 ± 59 m3) followed by 10 months of erosion (–3090 ± 51 m3) for a net loss of 690 ± 51 m3, and document that interannual variations in beach width and volume overprint seasonal patterns. Notably, a seasonal signal is recorded in the topographic structure of the beach. We test the relationship of beach volume and width to variations in wind, water level, and wave energy flux generated from southern hemisphere swell as well as locally generated trade-wind waves. We identify three beach segments and three nearshore sand fields that form a sand-sharing, source-sink network, yet operate quasi-independently. Our analysis reveals that individual beach segments and their adjacent sand fields experience coherent (simultaneous) gains and losses of sand, suggesting that alongshore sediment exchange is dominant over cross-shore exchange. The main drivers of beach change are variations in water level and wave energy flux. Beach volume and width both vary with nearshore sand cover, indicating that free exchange with nearshore sources is intrinsic to beach variability. Our results suggest that rising sea level and extreme El Niño-Southern Oscillation events will contribute to Royal Hawaiian Beach destabilization, which may amplify erosional events and increase the cost of future beach maintenance.
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Marine geology
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