MORPHODYNAMIC CHANGES DUE TO CALM/MODERATE WAVE FORCING: A CASE STUDY OF WAIKĪKĪ BEACH
Date
2021
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Abstract
Sea level rise, erosion, and the wave climate influence Waikīkī Beach on the South Shoreof O‘ahu which is a popular beach in metropolitan Honolulu. In response to recent erosion
events and on-going beach nourishments, weekly surveys have been collected for the past 3
years, from April 2018 through December 2020, to better understand coastal morphology.
Local studies found detailed two-dimensional morphological structures; however, no direct
relationships between the offshore driving ocean conditions and Waikīkī Beach have been
established. Consequently, the purpose of this study is to relate the offshore wave conditions
to sand movement. We use a wave hindcast to quantify relationships between the sand
volume and various wave parameters. We find that the two dominant wave parameters
driving changes in the sand volume are the wave direction from swells generated in the
Southern Ocean (Dps) and Easterly wind wave height (Hse) relative to many other parameters
of the wave climate. Both wave sources are active throughout the year and we are unable
to discern seasonal beach changes. We find the antecedent wave condition influences the
beach state and the previous 50 weeks might affect the present beach state. The spatial
relationship between the wave parameters demonstrates clear geophysical oscillations in the
sand motion which supports that Dps and Hse are influencing the nearshore dynamics and
resultant beach morphology.
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Marine geology, Ocean engineering
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55 pages
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