Honors Projects for Apparel Product Design and Merchandising

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    Dystopitronic: The History of Fashion and Its Future With Music
    (University of Hawaii at Manoa, 2014-09-26) Leon Guerrero, Chyloe ; Reilly, Andrew ; Fashion Design and Merchandising
    Fashion is a form of self-identification, symbolic of whom we are, how we want others to perceive us, and with whom we choose to associate ourselves. Dress of any given culture goes hand in hand with the events of the time period it corresponds to, along with what that culture perceives as beautiful at that time. It is a means of expressing ideals, attitudes, and social change, and as such, could be considered a form of art. The interpretation of music, like art, is highly subjective and is used as a means of communication of an idea or emotion. This project aims to connect music and fashion and use the ideas evoked from music to create a collection of garments. The prevalence of Electronic Dance Music today represents the present and future in popular culture. Electronic Dance Music artist Krewella’s debut album “Get Wet” served as the inspiration for this project. Six songs were chosen from the album and one look was created to correspond to each of the six songs. Materials used in the construction of the garments consist solely of synthetics, representative of the future of fashion and serving as a stark reminder that Earth is a delicate balance of nature that we must nurture or face losing forever. A catalog of the collection accompanies this essay with detailed descriptions of the inspirational song and design process for each look.
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    A Study of Factors Which Contribute to Garment Industry Sweatshops
    (University of Hawaii at Manoa, 2014-09-26) Young, Jade ; Fashion
    I began this study hoping to learn about the people who began the garment industry in America. Little did these early seamstresses, cutters, and pressers know that they were planting the seeds of a sixty billion dollar industry. As I researched the history of the garment industry, I learned about the sufferings that these early people endured working in garment industry sweatshops. Their lives did not fit my idea of the glamourous life that many people associate with the fashion industry. I began to feel that I wanted to let people outside of the industry know something about the deplorable conditions people worked under in the early days of the fashion industry. As I read more, however, I learned something that I found even more surprising and important: SWEATSHOPS ARE NOT HISTORY! I discovered that garment industry sweatshops have again become almost as big a problem today as they were when this industry began. I really thought that no one in the United States in 1985 worked for starvation wages and under dangerous and degrading conditions. The fashion industry promotes glamour and elegance, it manufactures billions of dollars of clothing a year, and it employs over a million people, but what are the conditions under which this fashionable clothing is made? Do the ends justify the means?
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    Color Performance of Selected Island Fabrics
    (University of Hawaii at Manoa, 2014-09-26) Tom, Mabel ; Fashion
    "Color Performance of Selected Island Fabrics" is a study undertaken to determine which fibers, and the fabrics woven of them, would give favorable performance in our Hawaiian climate. The four fabrics give a general selection of the types found in the Hawaiian market. These fabrics are widely used in apparel for Muu-muus, Aloha shirts, swimwear, and casual sports and lounge wear. Color is a large influencing factor in the purchase of both ready-to-wear and yardage goods. It can probably be said that it is the only factor in many decisions. Because color is so important to us, it is essential that color be maintained throughout the life of the fabric. "In the modern marketplace, consumers are usually more concerned with selecting the ‘just right' color than they are with consideration for other fiber and fabric characteristics.” Color is a visual sensation. Color on textiles are the result of dyes. "The technical definition for a dye is usually given as a compound that can be fixed on a substance in a more or less permanent state and that evokes the visual sensation of a specific color." Another coloring substance is the pigment, which, unlike a dye, is insoluble and does not penetrate the fiber. A pigment is mainly an organic coloring compound which must be held to the fabric with some type of adhesive, resin, or bonding agent. The "Hot Pink" so popular in Hawaii is a pigment which frequently wears off very quickly. However, dyes also "cause problems for consumers despite the fact that dyestuffs have improved tremendously during the past 25 to 30 years, and despite improvements in printing processes. Dissatisfaction may be the result of improper fabric care when the consumer ignores label information; or because information and directions provided on the label by the manufacturer are inadequate." This study will attempt to uncover some generalizations that can be made regarding the textiles used in Hawaii.
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    The Cultural Diffusion of Dress in Hawaii
    (University of Hawaii at Manoa, 2014-09-26) Takase, Lori ; Herrick, Orpha ; Fashion
    The purpose of this ready-to-wear industry study is to analyze the impact of selected cultures on the design features of Hawaiian-made women’s apparel. Specifically, the study will involve the manner of interpretation and the degree of adaptation local designers have incorporated into their design lines. Throughout the development of the Hawaiian apparel industry, there has been no comprehensive effort to develop a resource on design influences and styles. Hawaii’s population is a blend of many ethnic groups, each of whom have contributed to the uniqueness of Hawaiian apparel. Designers have often incorporated certain design features from an ethnic group into their work, uncertain of the origins of the feature or of the many variations which would contribute uniqueness to the garments.
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    Benetton: A Discussion, Analysis, and Evaluation of the "United Colors of Benetton" Campaign, 1988-1992
    (University of Hawaii at Manoa, 2014-09-26) Schiller, Amy ; Fashion
    The purpose of this paper is to discuss, analyze, and evaluate Benetton's advertising campaign between 1988 and 1992. It will describe the campaign's focus on current social issues and the controversy it created under the "United Colors of Benetton" theme. By explaining advertising, in relation to its function as marketing's communication tool, I will describe the objectives and techniques adopted by Benetton for its campaign. I will also comment on the social environment, which influenced the campaign's structure, as well as trace the campaign's history. By citing a previous example of controversial fashion advertising, I will show that a precedent existed for Benetton's advertising approach. I will also describe a model that suggests a way to classify, analyze, and make ethical judgments about emotion-arousing ads. By using this model, I will analyze several Benetton advertisements and show them to cause strong emotions. Lastly, I will comment on the ethical concerns affecting the campaign, followed by a description and discussion of the results of an empirical study I conducted which tested the effectiveness of the campaign.
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    Undergraduate Preparation for Fashion Retailing Careers
    (University of Hawaii at Manoa, 2014-09-26) Okawa, Mae ; Troxell, Mary ; Fashion
    Survival of the fittest, an idea expounded by Charles Darwin in his theory relating to the evolution of Man, is especially applicable to the retailing field. Presenting the right goods, at the right time, at the right place, in the right quantities, and at the prices customers are willing and able to pay is the challenge that retailers must meet. For the fashion retailer the challenge of survival is more intense than for the retailer of staple goods. Those goods that the fashion retailer presents are dominated by one or more of the four basic fashion elements--form, detail of design, color, and texture. Therefore, they are subject to changes in demand due to changes in taste that occur at a constantly accelerating rate. It is those changes in fashion demand that require careful analysis and continuous study; knowledge and understanding of the principles relating to fashion and the ability to forecast future demand are required if a retailer is to survive. In discussing the subject of fashion retailing, several basic terms need to be defined for purposes of this study. The following definitions are those commonly agreed upon by recognized authorities in the field and will serve as a frame of reference for this study.
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    Hawaiian Kapa: The Cultural Aspects of its Designs
    (University of Hawaii at Manoa, 2014-09-26) Fukumitsu, Anne ; Fashion
    This paper originally was to concern itself with a study of the symbolism in the designs used to decorate Hawaiian bark cloth. Overwhelmingly, the references consulted refute the existence of symbolism in kapa designs. Attempted in this thesis, instead, are a review of the available information and a few theories on the possible meanings of some of the designs with some thoughts on kapa tradition itself. A working knowledge of the Hawaiian language and culture would have been of immeasurable value, especially in developing insight into the meanings of the Hawaiian names given the designs. With this knowledge a researcher studying a topic like kapa would be more independent of the reference literature and could reinterpret the old information and could even discover new facts. A try at making kapa, experiencing the mechanics of its production, would also have been beneficial to gain a deeper understanding of the subject of kapa. These two things are almost prerequisites for a study like this one.
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    Counterfeiting in the Fashion Industry
    (University of Hawaii at Manoa, 2014-09-26) Ching, Jessica ; Fashion
    Products have been identified by their brand marks since early times. Ancient Greek and Roman winemakers used impressions on their winecaps to show high quality, and in the Middle Ages trademarks were used to determine liability. Bakers were required by the British parliament in 1226 to mark their bread so that ''if any bread be faultie in weight it may bee then knowne in whome the fault is" (Kaikati & LaGarce, 1980:52). Counterfeiting became big business in the United States during Prohibition. Drinkers wanting some prohibited alcohol were willing to pay extra for a bottle of brand name scotch. Often the contents of such premium "imported'' bottles were domestic, and contained industrial alcohol, water, fusel oil, and flavorings under their counterfeit label (Chiles, 1986:36). In the last few years counterfeiting has become prevalent in the fashion industry. The occurrence of counterfeiting in the fashion industry has been identified as a serious problem by garment manufacturers whose unauthorized copies of goods are made and sold without their consent. The problem in this industry is of a different nature from counterfeiting in other industries; unlike counterfeit medicines, chemicals, or automobile and aircraft parts, lives are not endangered by counterfeit apparel. Nonetheless, counterfeiting in the fashion industry is a problem for many people. Manufacturers lose profits, employees lose jobs, and consumers may get something other than the goods they believe they have purchased. The problem of counterfeiting is complex and is aggravated by unusual circumstances which exist in the design and marketing of apparel and accessory products. In this study, I attempt to investigate counterfeiting from many different sides to form a composite picture of the complexity of this issue. I seek to find what the actual size and extent of the problem is in the fashion industry, and to answer these questions: Why has counterfeiting in the fashion industry suddenly emerged as a problem at this time? And what can be done to resolve the problem of counterfeiting in the fashion industry?
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    La Belle Epoque: A Revival of an Era in European Fashion
    (University of Hawaii at Manoa, 2012-12-13) Salas, Feliz ; Reilly, Andrew
    This project seeks to explore the characteristics of European fashion through a cultural and historical filter. Italian, British, and French cultures were examined, along with how their fashion aesthetics were directly affected by their historical backgrounds. This research was conducted through living and studying abroad in a span of two years through the UH Manoa Study Abroad Program. A semester spent in Florence, Italy studying Advanced Fashion Design and Couture Construction; a term spent in London, England studying Fashion Styling and Millinery; and a Fashion Styling Internship which included styling editorial photo shoots served as a valuable insight into what happens behind the commercial scenes in this field. Attendance of London and Milan Fashion Weeks, as well as the Pret-a-Porter (ready-to-wear) and Couture Fashion Week in Paris allowed for firsthand work experiences while being immersed in the heart of these fashion capitals. A nine-piece collection including womenswear, menswear, and accessories was designed and created for this project featuring European aesthetics and couture sewing techniques. The modernization of classical silhouettes and juxtaposition of textures and fabrics are showcased as inspired by the time period overlapping the Victorian and Edwardian eras, known as La Belle Epoque. A printed exhibit catalog accompanies the collection, illustrating the steps of the design process and detailed descriptions of each garment. This research experience abroad is a breakthrough in bringing opportunities to students in Hawaii by improving the current fashion curriculum and inspiring the local fashion industry to adapt to global standards. This runway collection was showcased on the 46th Annual Apparel Product Design and Merchandising Senior Fashion Show in April of 2012 at the Hawaii Hall Lawn of the University of Hawaii at Manoa.