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Low Frequency Modes on Two Fringing Reefs: Observations & Dynamics

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Title:Low Frequency Modes on Two Fringing Reefs: Observations & Dynamics
Authors:Yoon, Hyang
Contributors:Becker, Janet (advisor)
Oceanography (department)
Global Environmental Science (department)
coral reefs
physical oceanography
Date Issued:2013
Publisher:University of Hawaiʻi at Mānoa
Place of Publication:Honolulu
Abstract:Surface gravity waves are an important physical feature of the ocean that affect nearshore
processes, such as coastal inundation. Wave driven inundation results from increased coastal
water levels due to high and low frequency waves, breaking wave set-up and the tide. To
understand and predict wave driven inundation over a fringing reef, it is necessary to relate
incident wave conditions to the response at the coast. In this study, we focus on observations
and dynamics of the high and low frequency waves. Bottom pressure measurements across
two fringing coral reefs in the Republic of the Marshall Islands are analyzed in an effort to
relate incident wave energy measured on the fore reef to the energy at the shoreline. Time
series of significant wave height in the high and low frequency bands are examined, and the
records with large wave energy are identified and analyzed spectrally. The largest observed
shoreline response is due to low frequency motions on the reef flat. Spectral peaks during
the largest events occurred at a period T0 = 4L/√gh which is consistent with the excitation
of a quarter wave length normal mode on the reef flat. The amplitude of this normal mode
increases shoreward leading to enhanced low frequency energy at the shoreline.
Pages/Duration:69 pages
Rights:All UHM dissertations and theses are protected by copyright. They may be viewed from this source for any purpose, but reproduction or distribution in any format is prohibited without written permission from the copyright owner.
Rights Holder:Yoon, Hyang
Appears in Collections: Global Environmental Science (GES)

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