IMAGINING THE MARSHALLS: CHIEFS, TRADITION, AND THE STATE ON THE FRINGES OF U.S. EMPIRE A DISSERTAnON SUBMITTED TO THE GRADUATE DIVISION OF THE UNIVERSITY OF HAWAI'I IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY IN ANTHROPOLOGY AUGUST 2003 By Julianne M. Walsh Dissertation Committee: Geoffrey M. White, Chairperson Jack Bilmes Ben Finney David Hanlon Robert C. Kiste © Copyright (2003) by Julianne M. Walsh 111 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Ii kammololAnijkin kom ien otemjq ij kememej kom, im ien otemjej ifj'ar kin kom, ifjar kin . Ionlin. Phill:3. For many years most of the letters I received from my friends and family in the Marshalls began like this: Moktatll,jen kamololAnij kin ienin ibben dron. [First ofall, let us thank God for this time we have together.] They acknowledge that time and others are gifts, and offer their gratitude to their source. In this and many other matters, I am grateful for the example ofmany people from the Marshall Islands. I, too, am deeply grateful for the times shared with communities offamily, friends, students, and scholars in New Orleans, in Majuro, and in Honolulu. I want to acknowledge not only my gratitude to them, but also my gratitude to GodjOrthem. "I thank my God each time I think ofyou, and when I pray for you, I pray with joy." I am so grateful for your presence in my life. This dissertation took a long time for me to write. From the time I passed my comprehensive exams in early 1997 to the day I distributed a final draft to my committee in April 2003, my life has changed dramatically. In the long haul of dissertation writing and revising, the words oftheJesuit theologian, Pierre TeiIlard de Chardin have sustained me. I offer them here in the hopes that others will find them equally encouraging: Above all, trust in the slow work of God. We are quite naturally impatient in everything to reach the end without delay. We should like to skip the intermediate stages. We are impatient of being on the way to something unknown, something new. And yet it is the law ofall progress that it is made by passing through some stages ofinstability - and that it may take a very long time. And so I think it is with you. Your ideas mature gradually -let them grow. Let them shape themselves, without undue haste. Don't try to force them on, as though you could be today what time (that is to say, grace and circumstances acting on your own good will) will make ofyou tomorrow. iv Only God could say what this new spirit gradually forming within you will be. Give our Lord the benefit ofbelieving that his hand is leading you, and accept the anxiety of feeling yourself in suspense and incomplete. Despite all the hours and years, and the assistance and support ofmany people, this dissertation remains incomplete and imperfect -like myself. I hutnbly express my apologies and accept full responsibility for any errors or omissions I want to thank those who were there at the beginning but who have moved on, but who continue to inspire me: Bernadine Young, Elise Cleveland, Gladys Diedein, Danny Hedrick, Almira "Mimi" deBrum Momotaro, John Heine, Oscar deBrum, Sr. Alice. I thank those who welcomed me on Majuro from the first arrival in July of 1990 to the present. Yuu have made Majuro feel like a second home, a place I always long to return to, having had the privilege of seeing your islands through your eyes, through your stories, and the memories that you share with me. Assumption parish has always been my home because ofthe generosity and welcoming spirit of the parishioners and religious there. I thank the many Jesuits at Assumption over the years, particularly Fr. Tom Marciniak who asked the Momotaro family to be my sponsor family before I ever arrived on Majuro. I thank Msgr. James Gould, for the words that inspired me to stay during my first year as a volunteer when I was ready to leave. I thank Fr. Rich McAuliff, too, for the conversations on the porch with coffee in hand as we greeted schoolchildren in the moming. I pay tribute to the Maryknoll Sisters in the Marshalls, and I thank Sr. Lucille Witkewiz, Sr. Rose Lauren Earl, Sr. Aurora dela Cruz, Sr. Dora Nuetzi, Sr. Janet Hockman, Sr. Rose Patrick St. Aubin, Sr. Joan Crevcoure, and Sr. Carolyn White for welcoming me into their home, for the many shared meals, conversations, and the glorious ocean view from their convent. In addition, the I- v Kiribati Sacred Heart Sisters have been a refuge to me at many moments. Thank you for all the laughter. I miss Sr. Alice (who died in 2002). She was the best storyteller I have ever known. I would like to thank Assumption School faculty, staff, and students - especially my own students. My first homeroom, the AHS Class of1994, broke me in and I was "ruined for life" as the Jesuit International Volunteers promised. I especially would like to thank my former students who have served as research assistants over the years: Kakom Jetnil, Nebwij Ritok, Jessica Reimers, Neibot Loeal<, Junior Patrick, and Dorothy deBrum. Thanks also to my dear friends, and colleagues, at Assumption schools, especially Edna Latak, Pablo Augustine, and the bwebwe tv at the Assumption cafeteria: Edina, Marki, Neibaj, LiBubu, and Jinnie. I thank Alfred Capelle who hired me to teach to classes at the College ofthe Marshall Islands. I'm grateful to Carmen Bigler who hired me to work with the RMI Historic Preservation Office and the staff at Alele: Terry Mote, Pearl Zebedy, Charity Rilan, Laninbo Frank, Ken Heine, Loreen Muller, Angela deBrum, Amram Enos and Bernice Joash, the director. Thanks to the many women on Majuro who supported and assisted me during the research process. I especially would like to acknowledge the Women's Athletic Club (WAC), Women United Together in the Marshall Islands (WUTMI), the Assumption Parish Women's club, and our "ladies lunch" group - Marie Maddison, Biram and Tina Stege, and Holly Barker. I am grateful to the staff at the Marshall Islands Journal, whose work has enabled me to keep in touch and up to date as it entertained me. I appreciate GiffJohnson's help vi identifying resources about Kwajalein, particularly. I thank the staff at the Marshall Islands Visitors Authority, the Nuclear Claims Tribunal, the National Telecommunications Authority who have shared their respective agency's annual reports and other publications with me. Thanks to Alsen Kelen and Dennis Alessio at Wnan Aelon in Mojol (WAM) who talked with me about their work to revitalize indigenous sailing practices. Special thanks to alI the folks at Momotaro Corporation, Robert Reimers Enterprises, and Gibson's stores who shared the histories oftheir stores' development for this project. I acknowledge here the constant support, assistance, andjoij ofmy family in the Marshalls. Dennis and Daisy have always welcomed me back and back again into their lives, as a member of their family over the m:u;y years ofcomings and goings. It is a privilege to be a part of their family. Kom lukun emmon; Anijen kderammotl kom. Thanks to Lolo, Konki, Komjn, Harry, Ellie,Jima KaIeman, Bubu Wini, Jima Johnny, and all my aunties and uncles and cousins in the extended MomotaroIdeBrum and HeinelAlik families. Itis such a pleasure to be included in so many ofthe special events ofyour lives, from the first birthdays to the graduations. I am so proud ofyou all. I am grateful to the many who have accompanied.me at the University ofHawai'i. Thanks to my fellow anthropology students who sat through classes together, froze in our shared office spaces, and cheered each other through each stage of this process, especially: LeeRay Costa, Ty Tengan,Julie Field, Lisa Humphrey, Cissy Fowler, Marlane Guelden, Glenn Dolcemascolo, Dominica Tolentino, Amy Herchig, JD Baker, Aunchalee Loscalzo, Jaida N'ha Sandra, Ethan Cochrane, Chris King, and Catherine Fuller. My dissertation committee deserves special recognition for their patience with me. I thankJack Bilmes for daring to ask me about my progress every now and then, and for reading critically, when he finally received his copy ofthis dissertation. I've always appreciated Jack's attention to detail and to the quirky aspects oflife and langoage. I appreciate Ben Finney's attempts to broaden my focus beyond to Marshalls and to recognize and learn from relevant regional economic patterns. I also deeply appreciate his commitment to accessible and practical anthropological work, especially now that he hopes to apply his knowledge ofnavigation to projects in the Marshalls. I am grateful to Bob Kiste for his steady encouragement and sustained interest in the Marshall Islands and my work. I thank David Hanlon for his inspiration. His hopes for Oceanic scholarship inspire and challenge me. I appreciate his attentive reading and critical questions and comments, hut also his sensitivity ofexpression. I especially appreciate his reading and responding to my late drafts so rapidly. My advisor, GeoffWhite helped me over and over again to think through my ideas about the Marshalls and much else. When the writing was slow in coming, we met for lunches that left me hopeful and invigorated. Each rime I got lost, Geofflistened to me ramble through my ideas, and then repeated back to me a more coherent and lucid interpretation ofwhat I didn't understand I was doing. Geoff is not only a thorough and diligent scholar, but also a thoughtful mentor ofhis students. One of his many gifts is his ability to encourage others by highlighting their strengths rather than critiquing their weaknesses. I deeply appreciate the way that Geoffhas respected that this dissertation, with all its failings, is mine. Though this work has gready benefited from his many insights and suggestions, he allowed me the freedom to have it be an expression of my scholarship, understandings, and interpretations, even when they are niive, and obviously limited. I am grateful for his persistence in helping me to get the point and fully appreciate his suggestions when they took much repetition to sink into my thick skull. VU1 I want to acknowledge the support ofByron Bender (UH linguistics) who led me in an independent study ofthe Marshallese language that served me well when I returned to Majuro for fieldwork. I appreciate the willingness of Leonard Mason to share his work and his insights with me over the years. I acknowledge the contributions of Norman Meller to this dissertation, and regret that I did not express this to him before his death. Besides thanking those who were there at the beginning, and remain steady supports, I want thank those special people, who helped me to finish. GeoffWhite helped me realize how easy it would be not to finish; Fr. Bernie Cassidy said ifit was worth doing, it was worth doing even poorly; Kimberlee Kihleng invited me to run with her, listened for mile after mile, and always said just the tight thing; Rosemary Casey always understood, and reminded me that ifshe could do it, I could too; Keith Camacho andJuliann Anesi kept me sane and well-fed. Nebwij Ritok and KakomJetnii kept in touch. Their emails and phone calls arrived just in time. Hilda, Tommy, Kathy and Hetine revived me. I thank Hilda for her patient support, for managing things for our non-profit when I was too busy to handle it all, for covering for my other commitments, and for being such a wonderful, true friend through it all. I look forward to helping her as she completes this long process, too. I want to thank Small Island Networks, its tutors, and participating tutor program schools for keeping me grounded and aware ofthe need for relevant resources. I thank my husband, Scott Kroeker, for seeing this through, and seeing me through it. As long as I've known him, I've been "working on my dissertation;" and probably still would be, ifit weren't for his first, asking me to share a future with him (and without the dissertation), and second, supporting me through the long hours to the dissertation's completion. I also thank Scott for his generosity in editing, formatting, scanning, creating ix new graphics, improving old ones, proofreading the final document, and making me coffee in the morning. For those who are always there and can never be thanked enough -- Dennis, Daisy, Mom, Dad, Tom, Mike, Greg, Gram, Aimee, and Scott. Thanks again, for everything. Efiktata,jen kamofofAni/kin ,em" ,/;ben dron. Finally, let us thank God for this time we share together. x ABSTRACT Understandings of the Marshall Islands require attention to the interplay of multiple discourses oftradition, modernity, chiefs, development, and democracy from multiple sources that critically interact and mutually construct the Marshall Islands. This multi-sited, multi-vocal ethnography explores the reproduction and transformation of historic power relationships between Marshallese chiefs and commoners who incorporate and "indigenize" foreign discourses and resources into culturally informed models and practices ofauthority. In relationships ofunequal power, such as that defined by the Compact ofFree Association between the United States and the Republic of the Marshall Islands, dominant global discourses about culture and progress enable both local and transnational hegemonies. These discourses are contextually analyzed as they are invoked and challenged in Nitijela [parliament) debates, in evaluations ofthe Compact ofFree Association, in elites' autobiographical reflections on Marshallese-American relationships, and in foreign media representations. Historical shifts in the political and economic powers ofMarsha1lese chiefs through three colonial administrations, and the growth ofa commoner elite class since World War II further highlight the ways foreign resources are appropriated for specific local purposes that transform understandings ofpower and authority. With discourse as both object and method ofanalysis, the agency oflocal actors is both foregrounded and contextualized. Simplistic characterizations of chiefs, elites, commoners, and foreigners' are complicated through close attention to the ways local loyalties, colonial histories, political rivalries, and global discourses inform and frame expressions ofMarshallese identities. xi TABLE OF CONTENTS Acknowledgements iv Abstract xi Table ofContents xii Table ofFigures xvii Preface xx Chapter 1 Comings and Goings 1 Commanders and Chiefs: The Marshallese Cultural Center at USAKA : 1 The View 1 The Context 5 Cultural Models of Authority..........•........................................................................................ 15 Indigenization: Marshallizing America , 17 (post) Colonial Culture 21 Power, Agency, and Resistance 22 My Bridges..............................................................................................................•................... 25 Locating the Anthropologist 31 Research Period and Methods 34 Layout ofthe dissertation 37 Chapter 2 Locating the Marshall Islands 44 lto-ltak [Back and forth] 44 Metaphor as Method 54 Creating a Space 57 Mejro Mejin Artnij 58 In the Beginning 59 Laura : 62 len an dri-Japan Dapanese times] 66 Amata Kabua International Airport 70 Long Island 74 Manit [Custom] 78 Copra and Tobolar 82 The German Era 84 D-U-D 86 Arrival ofAmericans 88 Delap 90 Historic Divisions , 91 Assutnption 96 Uliga 98 Jarrej [Rita] 103 The Small Islands 103 Ejit 105 Nuclear Tests 106 Enernanit , , '" 109 xii Chapter 3 Historical Hierarchies 112 BwebwclIato [Storytelling] 112 Historical Accounts 113 Selecting Stories 115 Sources of Chiefly Authority 116 Joij 117 lrooj as Priests 120 Bwij and Bwidej Lineages and Land 121 lrooj as Warrior 125 Ratak and Ralik 127 Explorers 128 The Romanzov Expedition: Kotzebue, Chamisso, and Choris 129 Approaches : 131 Kadu: "Marshal1ese" Informant 134 Kotzebue's Return to Wotje: 1824 138 Summary 143 Whalers 146 The Whaleship Globe 147 Early Ethnographic Accounts 149 Lt. Paulding Makes History 153 Significance ofthe Globe Incident and Accounts 154 Missionaries 156 A Home on Ebon 158 lroojRelations 161 Copra and kings 164 Final Battles 165 Bwij-ill-Irooj[The Irooj Clan) 166 A German Protectorate 171 Protectorate Policies 171 Empowering Chiefs 173 Traditional Leaders and Continuing Disputes 173 A Japanese administered Mandate 175 Mandate Methods 176 lrooj Impacts 178 Bar BwebwenafO [felIing Stories Again) 185 xiii Chapter 4 lroo1 Ro Ad[Our Chiefs] 190 Foreign Chiefs 192 US Lomoren [American Saviors] 192 len Bata Eo [Wartime] 193 First Impressions 197 Bwcbwenato in dri-tarinac in Amcdika [A Story ofAmerican soldiers] 197 Commanders and Chiefs 203 "Na Dri Kicn clap in Manwd' 203 The Trust Territory 206 The Atoll Council 207 Taking Sides 209 Institutionalizing Authority 210 Interior Administration 211 The Marshall Islands Congress 213 Defining Authority 215 Increasing Power ofChiefs 217 Centralizing Authority 218 The Emergence ofAmata Kabua 218 Early Life 219 Kwajalein Negotiations 221 The Congress ofMicronesia 222 Representatives, Rivalries, Separatism 222 Economic and Political Development Agendas 224 Separatism 226 The RMI Constitution 229 "Catch 22" 233 Commanding Chiefs 234 Chapter 5 The New lrooj Elites 236 Mcjro Mcjin Amrij 237 Dri Utig "RRtg" 240 Global Contexts 244 Elite Access 247 Elite Anthropologist 249 Rutcj. 251 A Businessman 251 Balik 1roo1 and Senator 255 Kqjur Senator 262 An Elected Ralik 1roo1 269 Ralik-Ratak 1roo1 and Senator 278 Kom in dri-tcl Cf) i/ojukjuk in her [Woman Community leaderJ. 285 Summarizing Stories 292 Coming Up 292 Common(er) Views 294 XlV Chapter 6 Practicing Power 299 Introduction 299 Power in Practice 300 Political Institutions 302 Getting Elected and Staying in Power 306 Rallying and Feasting 309 Gambling Debate 313 Casino Resorts 313 Maintaining and Resisting Authority 319 The (Slot) "Machines" 322 Importing Nuclear Waste? 327 Gambling Part II 328 Repercussions 340 Conclusion 341 Chapter 7 Mom:y in Ewotlokjen Lan [The Money will Fall like Rain from Heaven] 343 Compact Context 346 Review ofCompact Negotiations 347 Compact Education 354 Referendum Results 357 Compact Evaluations 359 Interview Contexts 360 General Evaluations ofthe Compact Era 361 Compact Critiques 364 Conclusions 373 Chapter 8 Imagining the Marshalls 377 introduction: Discourse on Discourse 377 Globalization 381 Representations 383 Tristes Tropes: Paradise Lost 383 Cultural Loss and Inauthenticity 384 Shy, Gentle, and Pro-American 385 "Americanization ofEden" 386 Symbols ofMarshallese Modernity 387 The Glass Palace 388 Outrigger HoteL 391 Air Marshall Islands 392 Media (Mis)Representation 394 "Yankee, Go Home. Send Cash." 394 "Bombing Bikini Again (This Time with Money)" 396 "An Atomic Age Eden (but don't eat the Coconuts)" 397 Crippled and Corrupt 398 Dependency 403 "Becoming a Professional Victim" 406 Nuclear Victims' Remembrance Day: March 1, 1998 409 Conclusion 414 xv Chapter 9 Re-turnings 418 Bar'~o·ittJk418 Collusions and Collisions 422 Targets 424 Collisions 425 Collusions 426 Conclusions 429 Appendix A Geography OfThe Ratak And Ralik Island Chains 431 Appendix B Marshallese Orthography 433 Appendix C Compensation Schedule/Awards For Nuclear Affected Marshallese 436 Appendix 0 US Nuclear Tests In The Marshall Islands 441 Appendix E US Atmospheric Nuclear Tests At Nevada Test Site 444 Appendix F Map Of"Downwinders" 447 Appendix G "How The Sail Came To The Outrigger" 448 Appendix H Otto Von Kotzebue In The Marshall Islands 452 Appendix I American Missionaries To The Marshall Islands 454 AppendixJ Admiral Nimitz Proclamation 455 Glossary 461 Works Cited 462 XVl Figure 1. Figure 2. Figure 3. Figure 4. Figure 5. Figure 6. Figure 7. Figure 8. Figure 9. Figure 10. Figure 11. Figure 12. Figure 13. Figure 14. Figure 15. Figure 16. Figure 17. Figure 18. Figure 19. Figure 20. Figure 21. Figure 22. Figure 23. Figure 24. Figure 25. Figure 26. Figure 27. Figure 28. Figure 29. Figure 30. Figure 31. Figure 32. Figure 33. Figure 34. Figure 35. Figure 36. Figure37. Figure 38. Figure 39. Figure 40. Figure 41. Figure 42. Figure 43. Figure 44. TABLE OF FIGURES Marshallese-constructed em aj (thatch houses) 2 Col.Cottell, USAKA 2 Perfonners at the Cultural Center opening ceremony 3 Col. Cottell, 11"00/ Botlang Loeak, and 1rooj Michael Kabua 3 Botlang Loeak, one ofthe 11"00/ ofKwajalein 4 USAKA Cultural Center opening celebration 6 Ferry ride to Ebeye 6 View ofEbeye, Kwajalein 7 Housing at USAKA, Kwajalein Atoll. 7 Assumption High School Class of1994, Majuro 1991. 28 The departure ofMajuro's first Jesuit International Volunteers 29 Julie Walsh and the Momotaro family, May 1992 30 Julie Walsh and the Mornotaro family, August 1994 30 Sunrise from Assumption Convent 44 Alele Museum, Majuro 45 Playing checkers at the RRE Deli 46 Recess at Assumption Elementary 47 The RMI Capitol, also known as the "Glass Palace." 48 The curve at Delap, from the RMI Capital Building 48 Road construction ttaffic in front ofAIele Museum 49 Back road baseball 50 Assumption Convent, above the Elementary School 50 Dennis and Daisy Momotaro, my parents 52 Majuro traffic, morning rush hour 53 Trees now grow in World War II bomb craters onWotje Atoll 56 A Wotje resident rolls senmt in front ofhis home 56 Map ofthe Marshall Islands 61 Map ofMajuro Atoll 61 Map ofLaura, Majuro 62 Laura Beach 63 Map showing the location ofthe Japanese Peace Park Monument. 65 Japanese Peace Park 66 Map showing Majuro Intematiooo airport 70 Aerial view ofMajuro (Delap, Uliga, Rita) 71 Majuro from air just before landing 71 A farewell at Majuro airport 73 The road in Long Island 74 US Embassy in Majuro 1997 75 Robert Reimers Enterprises, Rairok. 75 The Majuro landfill 76 Advertisements for foreign owned businesses '" 76 Chinese operated take out store 77 Joba's curve 77 The grave of1ro.yhphp and President Amata Kabua 80 Figure 45. Figure 46. Figure 47. Figure 48. Figure 49. Figure 50. Figure 51. Figure 52. Figure 53. Figure 54. Figure 55. Figure 56. Figure 57. Figure 58. Figure 59. Figure 60. Figure 6t. Figure 62. Figure 63. Figure 64. Figure 65. Figure 66. Figure 67. Figure 68. Figure 69. Figure 70. Figure 7t. Figure 72. Figure 73. Figure 74. Figure 75. Figure 76. Figure 77. Figure 78. Figure 79. Figure 80. Figure 8t. Figure 82. Figure 83. Figure 84. Figure 85. Figure 86. Figure 87. Figure 88. Figure 89. Figure 90. Chinese fishing base at new old dock, Majuro 81 Tobolar Copra Processing Authority 83 Map ofMajuro 86 Satellite image ofD-U-D 87 Approaching DUD in 2001 87 US Army at Delap, Majuro 1944 89 1950 US Navy Civilian Administration map ofUliga 89 Gibson's development area, 1994 91 RRE "Downtown." 91 Amata Kabua 1970s 92 "Succession ofparamount chiefs ofMajuro." 93 Assumption 1960s 97 Assumption Church, 1994 97 Sunrise from the Uliga water tower 99 The old Bikini Office, 1997 101 Mon Ekajet [House ofJustice] The RMI Courthouse, 1998 102 The Trust Territory Courthouse, date unknown 102 Map ofthe small islands ofMajuro Atoll, East to Northwest 103 The small islands ofMajuro Atoll from opposite the lagoon 104 Children ofEjit 1994 106 Ejit island, Majuro atoll 106 Arnram Enos's painting ofthe Baker shot 107 Unloading picnic supplies at Enemanit 109 Larik Chief du groupe des iles Romanzoff 120 Radakian sailing canoe or walap at Maloelap atoll 132 Rarick, Young [roof ofWotje 133 KadoIl [Kadu} inhabitant des iks Carolines 134 "Reception ofCapt. Kotzebue at the island of Otdia." 139 Map ofthe Marshall Islands showing the two parallel chains ofatolls 140 The hotel atJaluit 165 Key traditional leaders in the Ralik chain 167 Kabua 168 Loeak 169 Litokwa 170 NBK sponsors the celebration ofthe Emperor's birthday onJaluit. 184 Marines storm a pillbox on Namur, Kwajalein atoll 194 Majuro lagoon with battieships 195 Japanese survivors at Wo* atoll, upon surrender 195 Amphibious tank on Kwajalein atoll 199 US soldiers removing Marshallese at Kwajalein 201 The singing of the Kwajalein rental agreement 1964 222 Amata Kabua in the Congress ofMicronesia 223 The Presidential inauguration ofAmata Kabua 228 'The Predator and the Prey." 300 Signage for the 2F Casino 324 Royal Flush slot machine room 324 xviii Figure 91. Figure 92. Figure 93. Figure 94. Figure 95. Figure 96. Figure 97. Figure 98. Figure 99. Figure 100. Figure 101. Figure 102. Figure 103. Cartoon from the Marshall Islands Joumal, 1996 345 Jab signifies a vote for Marshalls separation 348 Daisy Alik Momotaro, my adopted mother, in the 1978 rally 349 Political parades on Majuro in 1978 349 Indecision 350 Marshalls mokta [first]. Vote Jab 350 Plebiscite vote on Majuro 356 Marshall Islands Joumal cartoon 363 The Marshall Islands CapitoI... 388 Outrigger Hotel, Majuro Atoll 391 Air Marshall Islands on Wotje Atoll 392 New York Times Maga'{jne Cover story 396 Painting by Amram Enos, Alele archivist 410 PREFACE ''Truth comes in portions, some large, some small, but never whole ... " (Hau'ofa 1983:7) xx CHAPTERl COMINGS AND GOINGS COMMANDERS AND CHIEFS: THE MARSHAl .lESE CULTURAL CENTER AT USAKA The View Access to USAKA, base for the United States Army at Kwajalein Atoll in the Republic ofthe Marshall Islands, is usually strictly controlled. The United States Army's prime long-range missile testing facility, located approximately 5,000 miles west of Vandenburg Air Force Base in California, is off-limits, even to the Marshallese from whom the islands are leased. Those with security clearance for jobs on the base or a strictly monitored local sponsorship are the only exceptions. That Monday afternoon in February 1998 was different. A crowd slowly gathered at four in the afternoon outside the Kwajalein Cultural Center for its opening ceremony. Since Kwajalein is located across the International Date Line, its workweek is Tuesday through Saturday, to make communication with the United States easier; the 'weekend' falls on Sunday and Monday. Kwajalein residents mingled around the outrigger canoe and the newly constructed em 0/ [thatch huts] (replete with institutional identification numbers) displayed on the frontla~. Groups ofMarshallese gathered under the huts to weave, prepare food, and set up their demonstrations. Eventually a huge crowd had gathered, with hundreds ofMarshallese seated in gtoups near the tremendous ironwood tree. 1 ..~'t."""'"..-. Figure 1. Marshallese-constructed em aj (thatch houses). The Director of the Cultural Center, Pres Lockridge, stood to begin the program by acknowledging the guests, and participants. The base commander, Colonel Cottrell, then strode to the podium and addressed the crowd: Figure 2. Col.Cotrell, USAKA Welcome to the opening of the Marshallese Cultural Center. Continuing and improving the excellent relations between USAKA and our host nation, the Republic of the Marshall Islands, is a major goal of the US government and this command. This cultural center will play an active role in developing cultural exchange and active friendships ...though sometimes we have disagreements, we're friends and this center will always remind us that we are friends, Americans and Marshallese, and as friends we can resolve our differences (transcription,J.Walsh 1998). He thanked those who worked so diligently to create USAKA's Marshallese Cultural Center. His speech was then translated by the official Marshallese liaison, who reorganized it by recognizing individuals' contributions first, before proceeding with the remaining content. The program continued when a group of dancers wearing grass skirts and red armbands emerged, and a well-oiled young man blew into a conch shell. An elderly Marshallese man in similar dress stood at the podium and chanted furiously in a very rare public performance. Figure 3. Perfonners at the Cultural Center opening ceremony. The dancers walked to the VIP tent to the left of the stage and anointed the wrists of the case Commander, the Marshallese lrooj [chiefs], and the American Culture Center Curator with coconut oil. Figure 4. Col. C tr 11, lroojBotlang Lom, and Iroo) 3 One of the traditional landowners of Kwajalein, Botlang Loeak, then addressed the crowd in English and in Marshallese. He expressed gratitude to all those who worked to create the center and suggested that the "working relationship between the United States and the Republic of the Marshall Islands will be much easier" because ofthe new cultural center (transcription, J.Walsh 1998). Figure S. The American curator followed his remarks, and began with a quotation from the preamble to the Republic of the Marshall Islands' Constitution in which the importance and significance ofMarshallese culture to Marshallese people is poignandy expressed. In addressing the Marshallese audience, the curator's designated translator, unlike the previous translator, elaborated on some and omitted many others of the curator's original points. The Marshallese translator's voice strangely intensified with each sentence, speaking in the manner ofa Southern preacher, in long sentences interspersed with quick gasps ofair: ''fen aikuij kite, koutiej, im drrJibiji wot manit ko ad' [We must respect, praise, honor, and hold tight our culturetight~! Next came the distribution ofawards for the children's poster contest, followed by two songs performed by the Marshallese women's groups -- first the old national anthem, 4 and a song about Alele Museum. Next, the College of the Marshall Islands' President, Alfred Capelle, a Catholic deacon and former Director ofAkk Museum on Majuro, offered a prayer in English and Marshallese to bless the center and the large displays of food that were to be shared. The doors opened, and the crowd waited in line casually to tour the museum or fill heaping plates of food from the buffet. They moved slowly as did the lazy sun gradually setting over the crowd eating and visiting on the lawn. Near the thatch-roofed huts were open-air demonstration sites. A young American boy, standing above a seated Marshallese woman who stirred the embers ofburning coconut shells, called out to his mother: "Look how they make charcoal!" The Context A Majuro contingent flew to Kwajalein to participate in this opening ceremony and I was among the invited, allowed to represent Akk, the Marshalls' National Museum, Library, and Archive, if I chose to purchase a plane ticket. Employed by the US National Park Service as the Marshalls' Staff Ethnographer for a portion ofmy fieldwork period, I was also positioned at Akk as a temporary curator. I oversaw the 'borrowing' ofitems from Akle's miniscule collections and poor storage to Kwajalein's shiny, new, state-of-the art museum. Others among the Majuro group who had accepted the invitation were: Kwajalein lrooj and landowner (and Akkboard member), Botiang Loeak; Majuro mayor, Tarmile Ishoda and her assistant; Alfred Capelle, and Dennis Alessio, the director of Woan Acton in Mojol [Marshallese canoe] project that contributed a walap [large outrigger] for the opening event. 5 Figure 6. USAKA Cultural Center opening celebration Majuro Mayor's assistant, Tina and I bwebwenato [talk story] at the opening celebration. We were all pennitted on the base for the ceremony along with nwnerous Ebeye residents, but had to gain special pennission to stay overnight. I was grateful to be sponsored by the Cultural Center curator. The Iroojwas permitted to stay at the Kwajalein hotel, "Kwaj Lodge," given his status, but the others stayed with the Marshallese community living on tiny Ebeye (.14 square miles) with a population density of 66,750 per square mile (RMI Census 1999). Ebeye is a twenty minute ferry ride and a world away. Figure 7. Ferry ride to Ebeye. Photo by Gregg Geeslin. 6 Figure 8. View of Ebeye, Kwajalein. Figure 9. Housing at USAIC\, Kwajalein Atoll. The idea for the cultural center came about as World War II commemorations were planned in the early 1990s. Army leaders hoped to build a site to honor Kwajalein's significant role in the Pacific Theatre of World War II, and to create an archive, perhaps museum and research center. Part of that project included a Marshallese Cultural Center, a suggestion put forth by the American women residents who had participated in an 7 Asia/Pacific Cultural night with Marshallese women from Ebeye. With the commander's support, the grant was submitted and later awarded. As stipulated, it required military oversight. An Army director would administer the project and have ultimate responsibility for the buildings. The Army's Director created a Board ofDirectors, mainly consisting of civilian women and long-time Kwajalein residents who were members of the Yokwe Yuki Women's' club, which is horribly mispronounced as ''Yock wee Yuck." A dedicated volunteer staff gsrnered the support and contributions ofKwajalein fro"i who shared their limited personal collections ofphotos, spears, necklaces, and genealogies. The chiefs found weavers to construct the em qj [houses], as well as dancers, a chanter, and an anointing ceremony for the opening. The Marshallese traditional leaders' cooperation and political support clearly enabled the Cultural Center to exist. The opening ceremony was controversial in its design and its actual enactment. First, the Cultural Center staff wanted an "authentic" Marshallese event -- which to them meant pre-missionary era rituals. Their inquiry into possible ancient blessing rituals resulted in an anointing ceremony never seen or experienced before (nor since) by this ethnographer or the Marshallese audience members I questioned later. When one influential Marshallese participant learned there was to be no prayer, he balked, "How can we have a Morshalkse ceremony without an opening prayer?" Another subdy controversial act involved the translation ofthe Curator's speech. The translator ofthe Curator's speech used her role to offer her own exhortation about the significance ofthe cultural center and Marshallese cultural preservation. Unlike the other translations that were nearly literal, she only translated a small portion ofthe original 1 lom iuk is the Marshallese singular greeting pronounced, 'yock way yook', as in 'cook.' It literally means 'CVou are a rainbow" but more frequently is understood as love, or aloha. 8 speech, gave her own speech, and then took the opportunity to acknowledge the contributions ofmany Marshallese individuals in the audience, whowere previously overlooked and unrecognized. The songs selected by the women's group were meaningful and potentially contentious as well. They sang the nation's original national anthem, not the newer official anthem composed by the late Amata Kabua. The song they sang about A/ele was originally performed at the opening of the A/ele Museum on Majuro over twenty years earlier, though no description was made of the songs they sang nor their reasons for each selection. Perhaps most contentious of all was the Commander's disruption of the scheduled line up. As the emcee stood to welcome and introduce the honored guests, the Commander assumed he was the first on the list and stood up to give his speech. He interrupted and rather arrogandy, ifinnocendy, co-opted the ceremony. Any intended deference to and recognition ofMarshallese people, culture, and hierarchy was effectively denied as he stood, authoritatively speaking out ofturn. Since he spoke in English, the translator who had seen the program and was thus, unprepared for this early speech making, had to be located and rushed suddenly to the stage. He later told me: I hate doing this stuff. I hate having to kiss their ass. They won't even let the women leave the island with a Coke in their purse after working as a maid all day. We have to put up with them and can't even buy food from vending machines at the dock to take back to Ebeye (personal communication,]. Walsh 1998)?1 What is going on here? Why, after nearly fifty years ofAmerican presence on Kwajalein would the US decide a Marshallese Cultural Center was in order? Why build it on Kwajalein rather than on Ebeye, where the Marshallese people reside? Placing a cultural center on an atoll whose lagoon serves as target practice for US missiles is just the beginning of the irony. Americans pursuing Marshallese cultural preservation on Kwajalein, 9 where Marshallese people are not permitted to step foot on their own land, the source of their identity, without Army approval, might be construed as incredibly offensive - or not. The irony oflistening to the Center's Curator quote the preamble to the Marshallese Constitution in English: "[We] value nothing more dearly than our home on these islands," to address a gathering of Marshallese people on Kwajalein was apparently lost on most of the audience. The difference between the view and the context in the above descriptions is the contribution of anthropological research, and long-term relationships. Yet, participation and observation alone (like "the view" of the Kwajalein audience who participated in and observed the opening events) is insufficient to get at the constructions ofmeaning, the frameworks ofinterpretation, and a larger interpretive goal of cultural translation and improved understanding. To explore the deeper context of this particular event, would require a deeper understanding ofthe personal histories ofthe key organizers. For example, knowing that the Commander was rumored to be exceptionally envious ofthe "community of distinction" award, and more than likely aware of the statistic that no commander of Kwajalein has ever been promoted at the end ofhis assignment might explain his desire to support and claim credit for the Cultural Center. Similarly, the Curator's translator's history would offer insight into her translation/exhortation. Recognizing her marriage to an American, who is a long-term resident ofthe Marshalls, and her residence on Kwajalein, rather than Ebeye, might make her self-designated representation ofMarshallese culture more understandable. Likewise, any temptation to dismiss the curator as naive cultural missionary might be complicated by an awareness ofher dedication to teaching art to high 10 school students on the nearby island of Gugeegue, her long-term residence on Kwajalein, her close friendships with numerous Marshallese on both Ebeye and Majuro, and her husband's long-term commitment to serving Marshallese through his position as a doctor on Kwajalein. The irony of an American reciting the Marshallese Preamble in English to a Marshallese audience on Kwajalein is only heightened by the knowledge that an American Peace Corps volunteer originally drafted the Constitution's preamble. Where does it stop, this context building? How "deep" must one go to get at truth, truths, multiple perspectives, motivations, and interpretations? Is greater and greater personal, historical detail more beneficial than perhaps the broader perspective gained through distance? To understand the broader context of this scene is to imagine the institutions that shaped the lives ofthese particular actors and to examine the strategies of the other powerful people who initiated the policies and practices that resulted in Marshallese-American relationships and interactions as represented here. A more distant, less personal perspective explores themes ofinteraction, similarities in representations of this unique relationship, similarities with other global relationships, colonial situations, and regions of the world as well as a longer historical trajectory. And yet, while the more distant, less personal significance ofwhat happens here is understood only in compararive context, real meaning for the people herein represented lies in their interpretations ofthe minute details that constitute their daily lives, and this event. The opening ofthe Marshallese Cultural Center on Kwajalein reproduced frequent longstanding aspects ofAmerican-Marshallese relationships. The complexity ofthis event correlates with numerous issues that this dissertation will attempt to explore, dissect, and unpack at multiple levels ofanalysis. From "thick" contextualized ethnographic accounts 11 of Marshallese political action to deeply personal life histories ofelites, from indigenous and foreign cultural representations to global discourses ofdevelopment, cultural preservation, human rights, and democracy, the depth and breadth ofUS-Marshallese relations will be presented. The focus on discourse is critical to this endeavor. By discourse, I mean the knowledge that is circulated, organized, and represented in institutions, and negotiated by particular people in specific contexts for particular ends. Discourse connects knowledge with power, as it emphasizes the ways knowledge is used, rather than its truth or accuracy (Foucault 1978). Discourse includes the broad organizing themes through which societies construct and negotiate meaning and which are recognizable to those who participate in them (Gee 1999). Study ofdiscourse includes the ways in which certain concepts gain acceptance, are normalized, repeated, and taken for granted. Discourses have the power to shape social attitudes and influence social actions. Instead ofexploring development, human rights, dem9cracy, and culture per se, I examine the discourses produced about these topics. My focus on discourse makes this ethnography multi-vocal and also multi-sited as discourses reach across geographic boundaries, and limited dichotomous representations ofpeople, who may speak with one voice in one setting and with another in a different setting. With a focus on discourse, relationships ofpower emerge clearly, through examination ofthe construction, function, and specific contexts certain discourses are enacted. How does a discourse ofdevelopment emerge? Why does it emerge at any historical moment? Who produces it? Who reproduces it? In what context? For what type ofaudience? How is it interpreted, challenged, contested, accepted? By whom, and for what purposes? A focus on discourse enables an 12 appreciation ofthe complexity ofrelationships that defy broad general characterization. Discourses intersect, overlap, and influence each other, particularly in post-colonial sites like the Marshalls, where discourses ofdemocracy, tradition, modernity, and development are foregrounded. Concepts of'culture', its representation, preservation, and politicization are central to this dissertation. Culture functions as a resource, particularly in the friction created at bordering and intersecting cultural spheres, which may be claimed or abandoned by the powerful. As a resource, culture is constantly reshaped, and altered as its definitions are applied in new ways, in new contexts and situations, and with new players. As icons of culture and tradition, hereditary chiefs playa pivotal role in representing culture, and well as defining, enacting, preserving, and altering understandings (Hau'ofa 1994: 2). Chiefs not only embody, but enact culture. Thus they are as capable ofreshaping understandings and validating change, as they are ofvalidating the past and preserving long-standing cultural values. \ Chiefs and elites (educated and wealthy commoners) who maintain significant positions in traditional and contemporary realms ofpower are important foci ofthis study. Their positions in significant social institutions make them personal sites ofintersection with international corporations, products, resources, and discourses. Understanding how their power is viewed, garnered, and maintained is a critical endeavor. While the study of traditional chiefs in contemporary societies has long been an anthropological project aimed at discovering cultural continuities, political economy, and transforming hierarchies (Sahlins1985; White and Lindstrom 1997), studies of elites, particularly contemporary 13 Pacific Islander elites, have rarely been attempted by anthropologists' (Marcus 1979; Marcus 1982; Marcus 1983). Anthropology has long-focused on the plight of the world's "peripheral" peoples. Anthropology's understandings ofpower and wealth are stilted by the one-sidedness of research, despite the disciplinary ideal ofholism. "Instead ofasking why some people are poor, we need to ask why others are so affluent," Laura Nader demands (1969: 289). The reasons for the narrow focus on the marginalized and peripheral have as much to do with the history ofthe discipline as well as its practitioners. Given the increasing intersection ofglobal economies and a growing awareness of the collaboration oflocal actors in the economic and political subordination of small-scale communities, understandings ofpower and political transformation are unforgivably incomplete without an understanding ofhow those with power perceive, gain, retain, and use it. Writing accurate and adequate histories and accounts ofpower requires sensitivity to local agency, and to hegemony at multiple levels. Anthropologists need to listen to the powerful as well as the powerless. Yet, anthropologists have successfully avoided the challenge ofpursuing the powerful, by focusing on less-threatening communities and participants --those whose potential to negatively impact goals, and academic careers is limited. Aligned with the powerless, anthropologists may assert a moral indignation, amplify and sometimes assume the voices of the marginalized (Marcus and Fisher 1986). Not only for personal, political, and disciplinary leanings are elites often overlooked, (and in this sense, marginalized within anthropology), but also for 2 For specific studies ofTonga and Papua New Guinea see Marcus 1979; Marcus 1981, Gewertz and Errington 1999 respectively. For an early acknowledgement ofpan-Pacific elites see Hau'ofa 1987, "A New South Pacific Society;" for political or bureaucratic elites see Watters 1987. 14 methodological challenges. "Studying up" requires different methods than "studying down" (Nader 1969). With elites, the fundamental task ofestablishing rapport takes on new meaning as the stakes for anthropologists are higher and opportunities for access are rare. Research on elites is perhaps more easily recognized as research with elites, since power is shared or inverted between the anthropologist and participants in ways that "studying down" often precludes. Elites typically bring greater material wealth, influence, to the relationship than an ethnographer living off a limited grant or salary. What anthropologists can offer elites is quite different from what anthropologists can offer peripheral and marginalized community members. This work aims to illuminate how processes and institutions ofcolonialism work in conjunction / collaborate with local cultures to create, reinforce, and also limit the power of traditional chiefs and political elites (Thomas 1994; McPherson 2001; White 1991). Contemporary political elites include financially successful businessmen, educated politicians, influential women in the local community, as well as religious leaders, educators, and health care providers. Where land was once the primary requisite ofpolitical power, today's money economy provides new means of social mobility that challenge traditional authority. Only as recently as 2000 was the nation's first commoner President elected. Cultural Models ofAuthority This work explores the significance oflocal, cultural models of authority on the understanding ofglobal alliances. I inquire into the ways both American andMarshallese cultural models ofauthority, power, and dependency construct chiefs and elites today. An 15 analysis ofMarshallese chiefs' interactions with foreign powers through history provides insights into the ways relationships between chiefs, commanders, commoners and civilians in the present reproduce and reshape historic relations between Marshallese chiefs, their people, and foreign administrations. Cultural models of power, authority, and dependency provide frameworks for social interaction, particularly in encounters between foreign and native players. Who can speak? How? To whom? Who are the authorities? What kind of authority do they have? How is authority challenged? When is it marshaled, by whom, and for what reasons? The answers to these questions are perpetnally in flux, naturally negotiated in daily interactions. The collective experience ofUS colonialism in the Marshall Islands serves as a frame for other interactions between Marshallese and American people whether they reside in the Marshalls; Honolulu, Hawai'i; Costa Mesa, California; Enid, Oklahoma; Springdale, Arkansas; or Cleburne, Texas. Few, ifany, Marshallese label the relationship "colonial" or "hegemonic." Both US and RMI government officials, lacking any neutral term, consistently refer to the political agreement that legally links the two as "special" in their press releases. Alternatively, average Marshallese citizens describe the relationship with the United States in metaphors offamily and hierarchy -- their primary relationships characterized by power, dependency, and reciprocity. In the event described earlier, the cooperation ofMarshallese chiefs, US military commanders, Ebeye residents, Cultural Center staff, and multiple volunteers is evident. How is this cooperation to be understood? Is it passive acceptance? Is it complicity? Might it be exploitation? Ifso, ofwhom and by whom? 16 TIlls work attempts to highlight local relationships ofdependency and power through analysis ofmetaphors that describe relationships between chiefs and commoners, parents and children, and elder and younger siblings. The similarities ofexpectations of those with authority as well as appropriate responses and actions from subordinates in multiple categories are expressed in phrases that refer to looking after, caring for, providing for protecting and guiding. Using examples from daily interactions, I will demonstrate how power is often maintained by encouraging dependency. Those with the publicly ascribed and acknowledged authority to lead are few; others, no matter how independent and ambitious, are effectively discouraged from taking responsibility through direct challenges to their junior positions, their knowledge, or their lack of traditional authority. Indigenization: Marshallizing America Relationships of dependency on those above and responsibility for those below, contribute to the familiar and familial feel ofthe RMI/US relationship. Examples of familial or hierarchical metaphors of authority are repeated again and again in participants' descriptions ofUS/RMI relations. In contrast to some local leaders who view the relationship as colonial and oppressive, average Marshallese citizens portray the US as an ally, a type ofrelative, to call upon to step in and make things right. For traditional leaders accustomed to competing with educated commoners for authority and economic advantage, the US is the ultimate source oftheir opponents' strength, as well as their own. . Their relationship to the US is ambivalent since the US economically empowers them through direct land payments, yet also constrains their influence indirecdy through discourses ofdemocracy, human rights, civil society, accountability and transparency, that Me critical oftraditional hierarchical relations ofpower. 17 'Ibis dissertation will show how powerful nations, their ideologies and practices, are indigenized and understood in local, culturally framed ways. Cultural metaphors not only provide a model for Marshallese interpretations of the US, but a means of enhancing and limiting the power of the US vis-a-vis the Marshalls. Identically, American cultural understandings enhance and limit the authority ofMarshallese chiefs and the reproduction ofhierarchy in the Marshalls. How power is negotiated in the midst ofthese frameworks/worldviews/cultural models is a central question here. While earlier studies of the Marshalls emphasize American empowerment of chiefs and disempowerment ofthe larger, general Marshallese population (Spoehr 1949; Kiste 1974; Rynkiewich 1974), thus an American distortion ofhierarchy, I attempt to show also how American power and influence are constrained by Marshallese models of authority. The processes of indigenization and Americanization involve intercepting ideas, objects, symbols, funds, populations, missiles, ideologies, and images, in familiar culturally-patterned ways, that then in rum supplement and expand those same cultural patterns. As shown in recent studies of 'missionization,' people are not passively colonized, but are active participants in their own history (Burt 1994; Barker 1990). This is not to underestimate the force offoreign global systems but to recognize the importance oflocal perspectives rather than privilege the foreign. US militarism, capitalism, and~olonialism impact Marshallese lives on a daily basis. But these forces are viewed and engaged through the lens oflocal histories and experiences, through the collective memories ofMarshallese people and society. 'Ibis study argues that many Marshallese see the US not as an exploitative, militaristic nation, but as a wealthy, generous benefactor whose behavior is much like one's 18 Irool [Chief]. In return, the kajur [commoners] are respectful, silent, and apparendy loyal. Claiming that US!RMI relations replicate Irool! kajurrelations is to assert, as I will show in later chapters, that these relations are contentious, involve exploitation from above and below, are based on idealized models, but in reality, are fluid, and constandy contested, challenged, critiqued, and resisted in multiple contexts. As scholars have noted, the presence of an 'other' does not always result in denigrating the foreign and valori2ing the local. In some contexts, encounters with others entail the wholesale condemnation!destruction oflocal culture in favor ofthe foteign (Thomas 1992; Burridge 1960; Lawrence 1964). The anthropological literature on 'cargo cults' contributes to our understanding of how indigenous societies denigrate local practices in the face of previously unimaginable force and wealth of foreign others (Lindstrom 1993; Worsley 1957). The collective memory ofWorld War II, with bothJapanese and US militaries, created a deep sense of the self at the mercy ofpowerful others (poyer et al. 2001). International hegemony was secured through local hierarchy. Marshallese recognized foreigners as the source ofeconomic power as the realms ofIroof authority gradually diminished. While the presence ofAmericans marked a liberation of sorts from the oppression ofJapanese military occupation and an old colonial administration, it also presented an opportunity for Marshallese to reassert and further define themselves in contrast to a new colonial powet. Throughout the Pacific, the post-war era of decolonization became an era ofre-valori2ation of tradition (Kelly and Kaplan 2001; Lindstrom and White 1993). In contrast, I will argue that for the Marshall Islands the post war period is characterized by denigrating the past (and symbols and images of "tradition") 19 in favor of participating in the powerful discourses ofmodernity, development, and progress (Hanlon 1998). The US was yet another nation to recolonize the Marshall Islands according to its cultural assumptions, values, and priorities. With a new colonizer arriving on average every forty years, the Marshallese people were by this time well aware of the power offoreign others. America is recognized as the source ofsome highly valued local institutions such as churches, schools and hospitals (Carucci 1989). American missionaries from Boston (American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions) introduced Congregational Protestantism in 1857. The American government established schools, and hospitals during the 1950s. The American display offorce during World War II, and the subsequent nuclear bomb testing in the islands left deep impressions about the power, wealth, and knowledge ofAmerica and Americans (Carucci 1989; Alcalay 1984: Kiste 1974). Tt also did little to empower a Marshallese sense of cultural pride and identification with their traditional knowledge and skills. Many Marshallese on Majuro look to the United States for opportunities and protection (from the abuses oflocal authorities, as I will present in later chapters) and some view their close alliance with a world power as a source ofpride (Carucci 1989). Free Association with the United States has its benefits. Yet this close relationship also provides a lens through which Marshal1ese view their own culture, technology, knowledge, and environment negatively. Through the high assessment ofAmerican skills, knowledge, and goods, Marshallese subtly and implicitly devalue indigenous ways of doing and knowing. Where employment and economic advancement are acqnired solely through familiarity 20 with Western ways, words, people, and knowledge within the contemporary social world of the MarshaII Islands, indigenous ways have few economic rewards and litde recognition. Preferring a progressive self-representation in contrast to the traditionalisms of other Pacific Island neighbor nations (Keesing and Tonkinson 1982), the MarshaIIs chooses to highlight its affiliation with the United States and thereby gain control and participation in the new social world ofAmerica. Given the Marshallese experience of World War II, which highlighted their powerlessness underJapanese military occupation, and the unavoidable strength and power ofUS military, this choice is a pragmatic one. Asserting ties to the United States enhances Marshallese management and control over their social world. Americans frequently condemn or bemoan this choice as cultural loss or denigration, rather than recognizing the resilient strength it reveals. (Post) Colonial Culture It might be argued that the process of"Americanization" is in actua1ity one of resistance to US representations ofthe islands and islanders over fifty years ago. Those who lived through World War II spent their remaining years compromising with an American administration. Their children pursued the disproportionate power ofAmerican knowledge so that they might playa more direct role in their own affairs in this new social world. Since post-war MarshaIIese leadership and those who interacted more closely with Americans in the political development ofthe islands may have internalized negative foreign judgments, 'modernization' becomes a perpetual and dominant national aim. Particularly among Western educated government leaders, the desire to implement policies that reward development is strong. Budgetary priorities disproportionately support construction projects on the capital, a national airline, a regionally recognized super-power 21 plant, etc. These 'developments' come at the expense ofbasic services such as a functioning health care and education systems. The discourse ofdevelopment (Hanlon 1998) traps Micronesian nations into foreign discourses ofmodernity while further de valuing indigenous ways. It also leaves indigenous national leaders vulnerable to accusations ofinauthenticity, mimicry, and greed. In a world ofWestern double standards ofdevelopment and cultural preservation, and local duplicity oftraditional reciprocal relations in development, Marshallese leaders walk a fine line as they attempt to maintain status and authority in spheres with drastically different expectations and values. This dissertation explores the negotiation and manipulations ofthese spheres by'Marshallese leaders through analysis ofelites' life histories and institutional roles, the everyday conversations about them, and the international discursive practices in which elites contribute to the imaginings ofthe Marshall Islands today. Power. AgeD!;)'. aV" Resistance The focus on "modernity" is typical ofFirst/Third World relations where new nations struggle to claim recognition through symbols and rhetoric ofdevelopment defined by the First World. The progressivist agenda is a common byproduct of the colonial experience. Like other new Pacific nations, the former Trust Territory (IT) districts' experience ofAmerican administration fostered national development projects and actively sought Western approval by co-opting symbolS ofwestern wealth and power, recognized in local arenas as well as international circles. Some have represented Micronesians as having an "expensive taste for modernity" (Hezel 1992). The preference for progressivism over the traditionalism ofthe South Pacific makes Micronesia a challenge for scholars ofOceania. A lack oflocally produced materials 22 toch~llengeWesterninterpret~tionscontributes to representations that portray islanders as naive,p~ssivelycolonized, or corrupt. N~tiveviews ofM~rshallesepolitics, forex~ple,are more likely learned through conversation than in published texts. To understand Marsh~lleseand otherMicronesi~npolitical views~ndstrategies requires more thanre~ding the unpublished reports ofa IT district~nthropologist(Tobin 1953), a single volume by a political scientist (Meller1969), and a study of the internal politics ofa forced migration and resettlement (Kiste 1974). While each is insightful, there have to date been no targeted anthropological studies ofpolitics, authority, and cultural practices ofleadership. This study seeks to explain contemporary politics through cultural and historical analysis capable ofgenerating deeper awareness ofpersistent, indigenous, Marshallese political practices and perspectives, especially understandings of power,.authority, and resistance. This dissertation explores Marshallese cultural, historical, and personal perspectives that consider explicit cooperation and collaboration with the United States a delibetately practical, even strategic activity. How might what has repeatedly been dubbed "Americanization" actually be understood as indigenous agency, marshalling the powers of America? For many of the Marshallese in this study, affiliation means access to, and thus an opportunity for control over dominant foreign powers and influences. This is consistent with indigenous methods ofresistance in a rigidly hierarchical society. Social scientists working with marginalized people like to talk about resistance, "weapons ofthe weak" (Scott 1985), and everyday passive aggression. In this work I attempt to describe Marshallese methods of resistance, how they are envisioned, spoken of, and understood within the framework ofMarshallese society. While I call this activity "resistance" - 23 Marshall Islanders do not. The word itself is so directly confrontational it would likely be denigrated as American, or man/in belk [an American way/custom]. Furthermore, use ofthe term reduces the effectiveness ofany 'resistance' practices. Thus, as I see it, Marshallese forms of "resistance" are often about maintaining ties and influence, about degrees of cooperation and participation, and rarely about confrontation, denial, and outright refusals. This dissertation pursues these arguments and ideas by tracing the historical development ofinternational relationships, the localization/indigenization offoreign powers, and the role of cultural models of authority and US colonialism in sustaining Marshallese political elites. Possibly unique among Pacific Island nations, Marshallese representations ofcultural and national identity have been transformed by a discourse of development pioneered by President and lroijlaplap Amata Kabua decades ago, and perpetuated by the dominant political party, in the context ofrelations between US and traditional Marshallese leaders. The lack of scholarly work on the Marshall Islands, the Marshallese people and their life ways compounds predominant recurring perceptions and representations. With few sources or advocates, those who seek to learn, write, and represent the Marshalls (particuIarly the foreign media) contribute to, and reinforce the inherently limited observations ofvery few people. Without a stronger representation ofcontemporary Marshallese voices, Marshallese society is understood not on its own terms, but in terms of ill-formed stereotypes, regional comparisons, and authorial biases. This dissertation aims to show that Marshallese resistance differs dramatically from Western models, or even others in the non-Western world. A lack ofvocal confrontation is not necessarily an indication of complicity or collaboration (although, it sometitnes may be). As human beings, we make 24 sense ofthe foreign in terms of the familiar. This work is an attempt to show some ofthe ways the Marshallese (and their American counterparts), use the familiar to frame the foreign throughout their historic relationship. We bridge our foreign and familiar wotlds with metaphors such as this one. Linking disparate islands ofexperience and knowledge eventually we create a Venice, a pseudo-city constructed ofislands and bridges, indirect routes, and imperfect passages. We navigate our way, unaware that the structures upon which we tread are created and fragile, conscious. only oftheir apparent solidity. In worlds surrounded and separated by water, bridges are as critical as boats, depending on the distance between shores. Both offer the prospect ofadventure, discovery, exploration, and importantly, return. They allow comings and goings, f'tltlj [going} and rooJtok [going back], ito-itak, [back and forth]. We are connected to others' shores, homes, and hearts by bridges we individually, mutually, and imperfectly construct and negotiate. My Bridges The metaphorical bridge that keeps myself and my Marshallese family and friends connected is built on mutual appreciations of faith, family, service, and community. I was raised in an environment that acknowledged disability, discrimination, and privilege. At home, I grew up constantly outnumbered by my three brothers (Tom, Mike, and Greg) and often felt lonely, excluded, and somewhat sorry for myself. Yet, in the face my own experience ofmarginalization, I empathized with my two older brothers' difficulties growing up with severe hearing losses. I was well aware ofmy blessings when I witnessed their struggles to use the phone, to hear their teachers, and to be accepted by their peers. For years, I lip synced phone calls so they could "hear" the other party by reading my lips 25 and repeated punch lines from our favorite televisions shows during commercials. When I was seven, my lively grandmother and young uncle with Down's Syndrome entered our daily lives after a tragic plane crash claimed my too-young grandfather's life. Danny became a fourth, special brother who helped my family learn to not take ourselves or our various struggles too seriously. We were all privileged. A friendship with our housekeeper was among my most significant influences. Bernadine brought her vibrant stories and laughter, into my somewhat sterile, ifcomfortable, suburban existence. Bernadine Young worked for my parents before I was born, and taught me things I never would have learned as a white girl in the segregated South. Stories of her life as a black woman have shaped my life. She told them while she protected me from my brothers and taught me to fight back, as she cleaned my bathroom and mopped the kitchen floor week after week after week for all ofmy life in New Orleans. She was a strong, impressive, and proud black woman; I was devoted to her. I hated that she worked for us. I hated that I wouldn't have known and loved her if she hadn't. Loving her, I loved her people across our socially segregated distance. I anguished over her strnggles as well as my privilege and power, questioning how and why things were the way they were. Bernadine is the base ofmy bridge to the Marshalls, expanded by early international travels, numerous opportunities for study and volunteerism abroad, family support, and a lifelong Catholic education that emphasizes: "From those who are given much, much is expected." On the other side of the bridge lay Majuro and a Marshallese community. I not only appreciated the sense of community and caring I experienced among Marshallese people but I came to connect my appreciation ofwonderful, eccentric, 26 excessive Majuro with my experience ofgrowing up in "the city that care forgot." Like Majuro, New Orleans is indulgent, surrounded by water, and filled with lovely, lively, eccentric people, and incredible storytellers. Both cities appreciate ancient social distinctions, and a strange, but not surprising, blend ofalcoholism and religiosity. Both are slow-moving oral societies, where face-to-face interaction and family, friends and food (preferable from the sea) are valued above most else. I believe I adjusted and adapted well to Majuro because I was raised in New Orleans. I feel equally at home in these paradoxical places that are warm and steamy; oppressive yet carefree. In the numerous comings and goings to my water-surrounded homes scarcely above (if not below) sea level, I recognize the value and beauty of a modern life that carries us back and forth like the tides. Itis a positive process -- this examination, re-examination, turning and returning. What I used to imagine as separate chapters of my life appear now as intermingled words on every page. These days, anthropologists highlight this common experience rather than deny the intensity or frequency ofthis back and forth process or the integration ofthe personal, and professional relationships. As Clifford (1997) notes, "the field" is not out there. As the communities ofresearch become our homes and their residents share our spheres, the spatial practices and understandings of ethnography have shifted. We study ourselves as much as we study others; our paths and lives intersect at more numerous junctures than previously possible or imagined. Anthropologists are increasingly interested in examining the sites ofthese intersections, rather than continuing to position others as "stationary objects to our wandering interests" (Clifford 1997), evidenced by the growing body of literature on diasporic communities, and transnational cultures (Small 1997; Hau'ofa 1998). 27 Nebwij gave birth to her daughter, Melina, last year. Kakom's son, Kyle, turned seven this summer; Neibot's son celebrated his second birthday at the end ofMay. I first arrived on Majuro in 1990 to teach Assumption High School Freshmen Class of 1994. These former students are older now than I was then. At tweny-two, a couple of months after graduating with a BA in English from Spring Hill, a small Catholic Jesuit college in Mobile, Alabama, I went to the Marshall Islands to teach English as a Jesuit International Volunteer OIV). Figure 10. Assumption High School Class of 1994, Majuro 1991. Julie Walsh,JIV, seated second row from top, right of center. At the time,JIVs were sent to Belize, Nepal, and throughout Micronesia according to the decisions of the JIV staff and director. Since they selected only twenty-five percent of the applicants, most of us were too pleased to have been selected to really care where we were assigned. As our applications attested, we were committed to the four goals of the JIV: "Living simply, witnessing faith, doing justice, and building community." In return we 28 were promised to be "ruined for life." The Micro7 subgroup of the thirty JIVs that year was the seventh group sent to Micronesia. We three women were the firstJIVs to go to Majuro where we lived and taught in a world of bright red and yellow buildings and blue and white uniforms -- Assumption Parish and Schools. ( Figure 11. The departure of Majuro's first Jesuit International Volunteers. (1992) Twelve years later, I have to admit that JIV kept its promise. I was ruined, broken, humbled, and resurrected despite my best intentions. My dreams ofbecoming an eccentric English professor died as I grew more appreciative of the complexity ofreal people (vs. characters), and aware of my preference to listen to their voices rather than read about them. The Marshalls and its people remain a central focus ofmy life. Two years after leaving Majuro, I returned for the graduation ofmy "Freshmen," with a sutpmer research grant to do interviews for my MA thesis in anthropology. 29 Julie Walsh and the Momotaro family, May 1992. (JIV) Julie Walsh and the Momotaro family, August 1994. (MA research) Three years later I returned to work and pursue twelve months doctoral research. When I left Majuro in 1992, I never dreamed that ten years later I would see my o Marshallese family on a regular basis at their second home in Hawai'i, and run into my Marshallese cousins on campus, much less be interrupted in the writing ofthis particular chapter by virtual chats with former students spread from Majuro to the US mainland. In a decade celrphones, internet access, and Compact niigration have made these relationships much easier to maintain. Even so, I am still amazed that I encounter the Marshalls every day ofmy life, by choice or by chance. I am as much a site of transnational exchange, as any of the elites about whom I write. Ifbeing "ruined for life" means having one's entire world uprooted and relocated on a tiny coral atoll in the Pacific, than I can't think of a greater privilege. LOClIting the Anthropologist Anthropologists have accepted the notion that it is impossible to avoid our subjectivities in our research (Clifford 1988, Clifford and Marcus 1986). My relationship with my 'topic' is quite different from that ofmany anthropologists. While certainly not native, anthropologists who have served as Peace Corps or other volunteers share with native anthropologists pre-research relationships, and struggles with objectivity, representation, and a deep awareness of the implications ofresearch on participants and local communities (Schwimmer and Warren 1993; Narayan 1993; Abu-Lughod 1988). A range of anthropologists' positions exists between "native" and "non-native." Having maintained my relationships with Marshallese friends and family for twelve years, I intend to continue them. I couldn't claim scientific objectivity if I had to. In an effort to reveal how this impacts this dissertation, through my interpretations and relationships with participants, I have decided to include reflexive passages for multiple reasons. As others have noted, emphasizing one's uncertain positionality is more honest, if 31 also more vulnerable, than pretending to be an objective bystander (Clifford and Marcus 1986; Clifford 1988; Abu-Lughod 1988; Narayan 1993; Behar 1993). My insights and understandings are colored by my past years on Majuro, and my relationships there. Positioning myself requires an exposure that, at times, is uncomfortable. Yet, ignoring the ways my friendships and experiences shape this work would be even more uncomfortable. This sort ofauthorial collateral only seems fair; I am as vulnerable as my Marshallese friends, family, and their culture, in this process ofinscribing, and fixing. Not only is my relationship to this topic personal, so is my research methodology. I agree with Pacific Islander scholars and others for whom disciplinary distinctions between personal and professional, home and work, field and academy deny the whole humans that we are (Smith 1999; Thaman 2000; Clifford 1997; Narayan 1993; Bruner 1993). Anthropologists have constructed their authority on notions of distance; asserting that coming and going to and from particular positions, spaces, cultural frameworks is an essential component ofthe interpretive process (Clifford 1997:84). As others have noted, the particular positions, spaces, and frameworks we travel back and forth from may not be as broadly defined as previously imagined (Clifford 1997: 86). Within our own "home" communities, we travel back and forth between spheres and sectors where we are at one moment "strangers" and at other times "natives" (Narayan1993; Abu-Lughod 1988). The circles about which we might be acknowledged as authorities and about which we might , feel comfortable representing are frequendy (un) admittedly quite small. I admire those who can admit the limits oftheir social spheres (Hezel 1998). The interpretive process inherent in "comings and goings" is as much about shifting identities, and relationships as it is about place. When I write about these 32 movements I do not mean to prioritize the coming and going to and from Majuro or Honolulu, but to emphasize the border that is crossed between America and the Marshalls a million times a day, in Honolulu, or in Majuro, or in cyber space. In stressing the significance ofmental/symbolic/cultural travels, I do not want to deny what I see as a significant contribution ofanthropology to understanding others. Living among, accompanying, and "being with" are critical means of forming relationships that enable certain types ofknowledge unavailable to those who pass briefly through. While typical anthropology graduJite programs consider a year of "fieldwork" adequate to distinguish the anthropological endeavor from other traveling observers (Clifford 1997), local hosts would scarcely concede that difference. When I was a volunteer, two years seemed quite a long time, considering most ofmy prior travels had not exceeded 4 months' residence. Now, after twelve years, and numerous return trips for extended visits, I see how insignificant two years are to host communities, and how hard it is for them to maintain enthusiasm for the perpetual cycles of orientations, introductions, and farewells organized for group after group offoreign teachers, doctors, workers, etc. Through interactions with currentJesuit volunteers on my return visits, I realize anew how isolated, and removed from local communities volunteers are, how limited their social spheres, and opportunities to learn more deeply. I critically question the value ofresearch in which a neophyte anthropologist spends a year gathering data. Linguistic ability, general social awareness, political understandings, and relationships oftrust and mutuality take a long time to form. After over forty months on Majuro, I am most frequently made aware ofmy ignorance. I not only question the length oftime spent in communities ofresearch, but also the methods and means ofinteracting with the community to explore a research topic. As 33 many have written; funded researchers wandering about and asking questions are not easily understood by locals whose lives are occupied with family, work, and personal commitments (Hymes 1969; Walsh 2001). Meaningful interaction is difficult when the spheres of potential reciprocity are exclusive. Anthropologists gain from the information participants provide; what do participants receive? Is it possible for anthropologists to give back to participants in equally meaningful ways? During the course ofmy years on Majuro, I have attempted to reciprocate the time and energy others have contributed to my livelihood by freely offering technical assistance, English lessons, exercise classes; writing grants; teaching summer school and giving piano lessons; playing the organ at church; preparing and serving food; videotaping family events for friends and relatives; tutoring; chauffeuring; etc. These actions ate merely gestures of appreciation, but essential ones, no matter how time-consuming they sometimes may be. A second way I attempt to reciprocate and make myself accessible and vulnerable is by seeking local employment ifpossible, rather than an externally funded grant. In this way I feel that I have a locally understood role, I am part ofa larger system in which I am as dependent on others as they are on me, and I am accessible and approachable in real, locally meaningful ways, not solely interacting with others in the service ofmy research and interests. In a locally meaningful context, the interaction between myselfand my coworkers, students, and others is more significant than ifI were wandering about asking questions, unavailable for observation in the context ofnormal daily interaction. Research Period and Methods I artived On Majuro in August 1997 with a teaching position for the Fall semester at the College ofthe Marshall Islands (CMI) as an adjunct instructor oftwo sections of 34 Introduction to Literature. Having arranged housing with the Maryknoll Sisters at Assumption, I had offered to contribute teaching hours in addition to the minimal rent they asked. The Sophomore Literature class ofthirty-five students became my daily morning contribution -- the CMI classes were Monday, Wednesday, and Friday afternoons. Upon my arrival, the Historic Preservation Office (HPO), where I had inquired into a possible position months earlier, contacted me with an offer to be their "Staff Ethnographer." Since I had made previous commitments, we negotiated my hours at ten hours per week in the mornings at Alele Museum, after my Assumption classes, and twenty hours per week after the semester ended. I was "funded," but had very little time after grading papers and planning lessons to pursue my research agenda the first three months. I was grateful to find a replacement teacher for the high school literature class after the /irst quarter. In the CMI literature class I was able to interact with my new (and some former Assumption) students and to hear their reflections on topics that were indirecdy relevant to my research questions. Reconnecting with my former students, their families, and my friends was a priority. I spent those /irst few months listening, and getting to know my colleagoes, housemates, neighbors, and students. My part-time work at Alele allowed me to explore the museum's resources and participate in the planning ofcultural events and new displays. As "Staff Ethnographer" for the HPO, I was assigned to assist in the writing of grants for equipment and projects and to pursue a pre-approved and funded study ofthe Marshallese dan system. Were I not hired, the HFO would have lost all the funding associated with the projects they had proposed to justify an ethnographer position from the US Park Service, Department ofInterior. Hiring me 'on-island' and part-time provided 35 extra funds for other HPO projects and budgetary needs since funds could be "re directed." The HPO Director assigned me to Alele Museum and hired a temporary curator who happened to be a former student of mine from Assumption. I was to work with the new curator in reorganizing the collections, planning for the annual culture week festivities, and imagining ways to 'liven up' the museum. In January, AIele became my sole steady commitment beyond my own research interests. I worked Mondays, Tuesdays, and half ofWednesdays at AIele; in the remainder ofthe week I pursued interviews, browsed through the museum's archives, wandelOed the halls ofthe Nitijela offices, went to community meetings, and political events. When the curator accepted a position with the newly budgeted tourism office, another young woman, who happened to be part ofmy extended Marshallese family, replaced her. After two months, she too left for a new position but was never replaced. The HPO Director then designated me ''Temporary Curator." Short-staffed, the assistant curatolO and I spent most of our days at Alele selling books and resources to increasing numbers ofAmerican couples, who walked over from the courthouse next door after adopting Marshallese children. Between interacting with these visitors, and assisting the Alele video production staff, collaboratively designing interviews and identifying topics for future programs, and offering staff training on the new computers and digital media, and internet access a recent grant had enabled, my twenty hours per week were almost exclusively devoted to Alele rather than other HPO assignments. I realized aftelO some frustration that my placement at Alele, with a wage paid by the US Park Service, served to free both AIele and HPO funds for other needs, though I never quite detelCmined what they were. 36 My research included attending and videotaping community events, including those that I helped organize through my community role at Alele. The discussions and planning of cultural representations and reactions to these events intrigued me as they often centered on procuring funds, rather than participants or cultural resources. During my 'off hours, I bwebwenato-ed (shared stories) and interviewed politicians and community leaders. When a major debate developed over gambling on Majuro, my involvement included participating in the strategizing with Majuro community leaders who gathered at weekly evening meetings at the Assumption library. 1 often spent whole afternoons talking with retired politicians, the elderly, and long-time friends working at Assumption. Attentively, I followed the RMI's international affairs, local reactions, government activities, and news. The results include ninty hours of audio interviews with political elites, community leaders, and average citizens about Majuro, local politics, and their views of the relationship between the Marshall Islands and the United States. I gathered over sixty hours ofvideotape of family and community events, cultural programs, footage ofhistoric sites and interviews about particular moments in Marshallese history elicited around particular historic structures remaining from earlier colonial administrations. In addition I took over one thousand photographs, maintained a log ofevents, and kept detailed fieldnotes from August 1997 throngh August 1998. Layout ofthe dissertation The dissertation is written in a form that allows for interruptions and discontinuities for such is the hermeneutic process ofback and forth, ito-itak, that balances breadth and depth and attempts to be true to the relationship between researcher and communities ofresearch as they come to know each other more deeply. 37 Particu!Jlr topics are re-visited for more specific levels of analysis at various places in this dissertation. The back and forth format also quite intentionally mirrors life on Majuro, where residents travel a single road back and forth over the course ofa day, and a lifetime (see Chapter 2). This style is also an attempt to express the dialectic process of asking questions, finding answers, and asking again. In an attempt to make this dissertation relevant and accessible to a non-academic audience, my writing style is deliberately narrative. Providing a sense ofplace, history, power relations, economics, and authority in the land and sea scapes ofMajuro is the purpose ofChapter 2. Chapter 2 locates the Marshall Islands historically and geographically through a virtual tour ofcontemporary Majuro that uses culturally significant landmarks and contemporary structures as points ofintersection with Marshallese history in order to convey the depths ofmemory, experience and meaning, as well as the power associated with particular plots ofland over generations. The connection to and meauings ofland to Marshallese, as a source ofidentity, commuuity, economic opportunity, and political power are foregrounded here. Further this chapter will give the reader a 'feel' for contemporary Majuro and life on a coral atoll. Chapter 3 begins with an analysis ofMarshallese social relations, cultural forms and practices as they have transformed through history. Foreign representations ofpower relations between commoners and chiefs, foreigners and natives as well as persistent cultural models of authority are the focus here, as traced through the missionary, German, and Japanese colonial eras. In Chapter 4 I apply chiefly models and examples ofauthority presented in Chapter 3 to the American administration of the island, and explore their transformation under the 38 influence of Amata Kabua during the periods ofpolitical development and early independence. This chapter continues historical analysis ofthe current American "compact" era, including a close reading of former President and lroijlaplap (high chief) Amata Kabua's five term administration and its role in shaping the nation -- it's goals, policies, and current models ofleadership. This chapter explores Kabua's selective use of Marshallese culture and global discourses to expand his authority. The aim of analysis is to understand how Marshallese, under the guidance of a high chief and President, indigenized aspects ofAmerican culture through discourses of"development," "tradition," and ''progress'' to shape a uniquely Marshallese modernity. The individuals who have the most influence in defining this modernity are those who had the most personal experiences working with, or being educated by, Americans during the US Trust Territory administration. Chapter 5 examines the rise of a commoner elite after World War II that expanded the models ofchiefly authority to include respect for newly formed positions of status and power linked to the Western institutions established by the US Trust Territory administration. Interactions between new elites and kajttr [commoners] or dtijerbol [workers] indicate an expansion and transformation of cultural models ofauthority that reinforce emerging "class" relations. A "commoner elite" implies a "common commonei' - a distinction that strengthens the contemporary , lroo/Iophp jg the tenn used to designate a high chief. Numerous chiefly lines existin both the Ratak and Ralik chains of atolls; the islands have never been united under a single recognized ruler, instead, leadership and ownership was persistendy claimed and contested in halde through the early 1900s. Thus, multiple lroojhphp exist today, with no single leader given a position higher than the others, except through democratic election to the national Parliament where two lroo/!aphp have served as President of the RMI. 39 preference ofthe label dnjerbd[worker] as perhaps more apt, not to mention specific, than the broadly defined kajur [commoner, non-royal]! In addition, Chapter 5 examines the process ofAmerican socialization and the impact ofUS education on the Marshalls through biographical interviews with elites who serve as gatekeepers and key figures in institutional sites that connect the Marshalls to broader global issues, institutions, and discourses. In these interviews, elites shed light on their educational backgrounds, their understandings ofMarshallese identity and nationhood, and their views ofthe Marshalls' relations with the United States. This group ofpowerful individuals, infonned by their collective educational experiences and past interactions with America/Americans, continues to shape the development ofthe nation. In the process, they serve as embodiments ofcontemporary cultural and national identities. Elites, like the missiles fired from Kwajalein, are "interceptors" offast-approaching foreign forces such as the global discourses they encounter as leaders ofpowerful institutions in the Marshall Islands. Their life histories and their evaluations of their own experience shed light on the ways transnational discourses ofvarious kinds impact not only national development, but also indigenous cultural and personal identities and practices. This chapter also highlights internal dissension and the complexity ofelite positionalities in discourses of cultural and national identity in the Marshalls. Informed by clan and lineage histories, local politics are tied to land rights and generations-old political affiliations. I have used life history/biographical methods to explore the fonnation of leadership status and the socialization of elites living under American colonialism. In 4 The phrase "/irst commonerPcesiden~'(in English) is repeatedly used to describe the current RMI President, Kessai Note. The Marshallese term kajur) commoner, rather than driierba1, worker, is used to describe his traditional status. 40 addition to their varied experience ofAmerican socialization, I examine how local loyalties and histories shape elites' divisive political positions on "development," "culture," and US RMI relations. Majuro's dominant political divisions, alluded to in earlier chapters, are reexamined in light of contemporary political disputes and their development as explored in the life histories of elites. Chapter 6 explores the ways power, held by these elites, is negotiated, enacted, maintained, and challenged on Majuro. The interaction between local models and practices of authority with foreign polirical institutions in the negotiation ofpower, influence, economic gain, political capital, and development projects are targeted through close analysw of controversial and unprecedented political debates onMajuro in 1997-1998. Examples oflegislative issues, particularly a national gambling debate, point to the strengths and boundaries of hierarchical authority and methods of collaborative resistance. These methods include alliance building and the incorporation ofpowerful others/outsiders, namely representatives ofmission and churches who subscribe to ideas of"equality," "justice," and "democracy" to (indirectly) oppose local authority. My analysis ofpower on Majuro intends to illustrate the tensions and connections between Marshallese conceptual spheres ofmanit [custom/culture] and modern democracy. This chapter not only highlights the sites and individuals who conduct these transnational negotiations, but foregrounds ambiguities about US relations that are made apparent as political parties take oppositional sides in local issues which intersect international relations. I foreground the evolving local methods ofresistance since these then serve as examples for future political activity that strengthen local resistance to foreign as well as local hegemony. 41 Chapter 7 focuses more closely on Marshallese understandings ofauthority through an examination ofmetaphoric language used to describe RMI leadership and US-RMI relations. I argue that Marshallese "Marshallize" the US as a means ofmaintaining power and authority over its strength and resources. By incorporating the US into familiar and familial relationships, Marshallese exercise their agency by asserting their understandings, expectations, and evaluations ofUS activity in the Marshalls. Marshallese metaphors that describe the US as a "parent," "chief," and "coach" point to persistent local methods of alliance building and collaboration with power as seen in Chapter 6. Relationships between the Bikinians and the US government, Marshallese parents and American adoptive parents, and Marshallese citizens and the US government as understood through the Compact of Free Association reveal the ways Marshallese evaluate both foreign and local authority according to criteria that are reproduced in multiple spheres ofMarshallese social life. The examples analyzed in this chapter highlight the continued cultural logic of dependency and reciprocity, as well as the responsibilities ofauthority. While Marshallese discourses of dependency rehearse estimarions ofUS authority, they are bolstered by discourses of human rights, social justice, democracy, independence, and sovereignty. The analysis shows that when Marshall Islanders request greater US investment, they assert a negative evaluation ofUS contributions to an ideally reciprocal relationship. In requesting closer ties to the US, the RMI also acknowledges its own continued commitment to the relationship. Chapter 8 focuses on the mutual construction of the Marshallese Islands in foreign media and local productions. Representations ofMarshallese culture and nation frequently intersect around themes ofdependency/victimization, democracy/corruption, and development/progressivism. The analysis compares foreign and local conceptions of 42 shared rhetoric/vocabulary that have drastically different interpretations and meanings. By unpacking the mutual constructions of the Marshall Islands and the Marshallese people, I want to demonstrate some ofthe ways cultural knowledge shapes perceptions such that the foreign is understood in terms of the familiar. Americans as well as Marshallese use culturally informed models of authority to define and evaluate this symbiotic relationship. The interplay between key Marshallese individuals, who serve as intersectors (I argue for the more deliberate term "interceptors") ofinternational discourse and widely accessible international media works to solidify or establish particular local interpretations and understandings ofvarious global discourses. A ninth, and final, chapter summarizes my exploration ofMarshallese models of power and authority, emerging from collisions oflocal and global discourses through various periods ofMarshallese history. It further confinns the significance oflong-term research that explores how indigenous agency and power relations are enacted, enhanced, and reproduced in a world where foreign forces fly unceasingly at their targets, like US missiles to Kwajalein. 43 CHAPTER 2 LOCATING THE MARSHALL ISLANDS ITO-ITAK[BACKAND FORTH] Ito-itak. Back and forth. Ito-itak is a way of life on a narrow strip of coral, where lik [ocean] and iar Uagoon] are nearly always simultaneously in view. The back and forth cycles of movement, imitating the stars, the planets, the understandings and events of our days: epaatlok Uow tide], aibwuj;tok [high tide], ratak [sunrise], ralik [sunset], over and over, day after day, month after month, year after year, and generation after generation. Imagine it. Figure 14. Sunrise from Assumption Convent. The sky brightens faintly in the East as I look out from the Maryknoll Sisters' porch and head downstairs to begin my morning walk. At 6:00AM I've already called Kakom to wake her to join me when I reach Small Island. We walk three mornings a week from Mon Bada (Assumption) in Uliga to the Outrigger Hotel in Delap, about five miles 44 round trip. As we walk the sun rises on our left,Jcn lik [from the ocean(side)]. On our right, the iar~agoon],is still a smooth pale blue, reflecting shades ofpink. An occasional car passes in the quiet calm. My Mom, Daisy, waves at us from her car as she heads to Long Island to open the store. Our other companions are the dogs that roam in bands but usually leave us alone. At the Air Marshall Islands office Kakom pretends to throw a rock "ssss!" -- at the infamous car-chasing dog who rises from his regular site in the center of the street to bark at us; he plops back down, disinterested. By 7 am the first of many back and forth trips of the day is completed. By 8 am, after a shower, I'm walking again, but this time in the opposite direction - lik on my right, iar on my left-- to work at Alele Museum. Once there, I pause for a cup of coffee and brief conversation at the open-air coffee shop downstairs, then pour some salt into my palm before heading upstairs with a hard-boiled lip [egg]. I punch in my card on the time clock at the Library, and head to the Museum. 45 At my noon lunch break, I continue in the same direction toward Rita, walking two hundred yards to RRE (Robert Reimers Enterprises) to purchase some coconut oil to send home and wait in line at the Post Office. While I wait I consider my lunch options. RRE Deli? Close but a town drunk sometimes accosts me. The Tide Table? Takes too long at this hour. Mother's Kitchen? Too far and I've already used twenty minutes. Tuna! I suddenly remember the leftovers from last night waiting in the fridge at home. The half-mile walk along the back road 1s hot in the noon sun and I'm walking unusually fast, by Majuro standards -- ribelle [American/foreigner/haole] style. At Assumption; I cut through the High School yard, around to the Elementary where I live upstairs with the Maryknoll sisters. I tug my little sister's ponytail as I pass her at recess. She flashes a fake scowl at me and then continues playing volleyball. "Bar 10 iuk,jotenin," 46 [See you later, tonight] she calls out as I run up the stairs. I'm looking forward to spending the weekend with my family. Recess at Assumption Elementary. After lunch, I head back to the main road to catch a taxi to the Glass Palace, since I have an appointment at 1 pm with the Minister of Resources and Development. I wait in the shade in front ofAssumption and call a taxi traveling toward Delap on the opposite side of the street over to my side -- all with a subtle flex of the wrist and a soft hiss. I join two others passengers in the back seat of a rusty Toyota, my backpack on my lap. When the car scrapes bottom at the huge Small Island dipS, we smile and raise our eyebrows at each other silently, while the driver sighs, "womvtT." Just before the Capitol I quietly say, "Mon kiel?' and the driver abruptly pulls across the road and into the circular drive. The driver and other passengers look at me with renewed curiosity as I drop fifty cents into his cupped palm. He tells me to reach through the open window for the exterior door handle. ; This dip is no longer a landmark as it was filled during the Japan-funded road repaving in late 1998. 47 After the interview, I stand self-consciously visible and alone on the road in full sun in front of the Capitol and try to hail another taxi. The schools are letting out already. Most of the taxis are already full and they honk at me when I swish my wrist to summon them. After 10 minutes, a friend stops to offer me a ride in her air-conditioned, tinted-windowed automobile. It is an appreciated refuge from the heat, the glare of the sun's reflection in the mirrored-glass capitol building, and the dust from the road construction that perpetually blows in the trade winds. Figure 19. The curve at Delap, from the RMI Capital Building. 6 (, The open area on the lagoon side of this photo has since been filled with Korean and Taiwanese car dealerships and stores (2002). 48 Figure 20. Road construction traffic in front of Alele Museum. After I return to the arctic air-conditioned Museum, I am immediately sent on an errand. We need the Secretary of Internal Affairs' signature on our purchase order (PO) for a new printer cartridge. I borrow the keys to the Alele pick-up so my colleague, Terry, and I can drive half a mile in the direction ofDelap, to the Historic Preservation Office (BPO) at the Ministry of Internal Affairs (IA) before turning back to RRE in Uliga, to pick up the cartridge. It is out of stock. We continue to Rita to see ifBing's store has one. They do, but we can't purchase it since it is more expensive than the amount on our PO. We decide to head back through town to an office supply store unfortunately named "The Tourist Trap" in Delap. By 4:45 we're back at AIde, cartridge in hand, to close the Museum. I walk home to Mon Bada, again, along the quiet back road that is by this hour shaded. Most days I pause to watch a few minutes of the neighborhood children's baseball game in the backyard of the former Peace Corps building. When I'm nearly whacked with a tennis ball, I feign anger -- "I-guk! [Hey!]" -- and chase the children around the bases. 49 Figure 21. Back road baseball. The Sisters are finishing dinner as I climb the steps above the seventh grade classroom that lead to the convent porch that has one of the best ocean views on Majuro. Framed by tall coconut trees, a small bay exists where once two distinct islets were 50 connected courtesy ofthe US Navy. On clear days the view across the ocean is ofa slightly raised and quivering plateau ofcoconut pahns, Amo Atoll, ten miles away. I sit appreciating the sisters' companionship and the evening view before reappearing to say goodnight and catch a taxi to Jemok, Rita. I'm anxious to catch the sunset and bwebwcnato [talk story] at Dennis and Daisy's house. It's getting darker now and the sky above the lagoon on my left is brilliant. Abba sings "Dancing Queen" over the radio. The taxi is empty and the driver is curious. He asks where I'm going: "Kwoj eta! nan ia?" "Mon Momo,"[Momotaro store/house], I respond. He asks me where I work, how I learned Marshallese, how long I have lived here, if I have a boyfriend, and ifI want to meet him later at The Pub. I explain myself and jump out at Jenrok to joinJima Kalemon, one ofmy grandpas, and my dad at the picnic table for a dark Lowenbrau, a treat from Dennis's own srock. We bwebwenato while my two teenage brothers start a fire with coconut husks in the metal tim of an old tractor wheel. Daisy pulls up in the Jeep with my two sisters (ages three and ten) and a cooler of fish someone dropped off at their Long Island store. The boys toss a couple of fish from the cooler on the grill for dinner. With rice, green salad, and cantaloupe we have a meal, blessed by Daisy before it's shared. After we eat, Komju and I head to Delap to rent a movie and eat a soft-serve ice cream cone. Twice again we pass through town -- the final back and forth ofthe day. 51 Figure 23. Dennis and Daisy Momotaro, my parents. How many times in a day does a Majuro resident travel that road, back and forth, back and forth, between Gibson's and RRE, between the airport and the dock, between Delap and Rita? It's not a long road, about five miles from the end of Rita to the bridge at the beginning of Delap. Traveling that same route again and again, day after day, by taxi, by foot, in an air-conditioned car, or in the back of a pick-up, impacts the way one sees the world. Attentiveness is somehow both sharpened and dulled. One knows every inch, but grows oblivious to most things except changes - a fresh paint job here, a missing row of ironwood trees there, a new speed bump. One grows more unmindful of the more or less constant features-the lagoon, the ocean, the low clouds in the sky, and the histories of particular places. Sometimes places trigger memories as one passes them by in the comings and going. These are memories of people, events, empty spaces now filled, once full spaces now empty: a car dealership at the weather station, a string of stores at the old Delap 52 runway, or three water towers removed. The past is always there, history laid out linearly along the road before and behind, when one chooses to acknowledge it. The road itself changes sometimes. It may be crowded, empty, flooded, or under construction. One rides along when the dips are flooded and the taxis stall, when the bottom of the car scrapes against monstrous speed bumps on the back road. One sits in line as traffic creeps downtown more slowly than anyone could walk, as children jump out of pickups in front of schools. One watches the road fill with traffic in the mornings and evenings as all those who live in "suburbs" near the airport commute, and those who live in town scramble for rides to work and home. At rush hour it is nearly impossible to cross the street; on Sundays scarcely a vehicle is on the road. A walk at 6 am is cool, calm, quiet, and peaceful; at 6 pm it is noisy, dusty, hot, and dangerous. In the early evenings, the road feels friendly again, as residents now refreshed, sweep their doorsteps, greet their neighbors, and wander toward the take-outs. The road has a rhythm of its own. Figure 24. I\.fajuro traffic, morning rush hour. 53 Metaphor as Method Ito-itak [back and forth] along this maID road serves as a metaphor for the hermeneutic process and reflexive methodology ofturning and re-turning to the questions posed in this work, to the positionality of the researcher, to the relationships that reflect and define understandings and identities, and finally, as a metaphor particularly suited to long-term researchers who may grow, like long-term Majuro residents, perhaps more obtuse than aware over time. This research aims to explore the places, people, and activities alongside the road, and also to shed light on the rhythms, bumps, dips, and the myriad vehicles anthropologists use on the road/research process itself. Metaphor is here a method to convey the form and content ofthis research. I present here an introduction to Majuro by providing a cultural/historical/political tour of the atoll. The aims ofthis tour are to introduce the institutions oflocal and foreign power that are integral to this dissertation and offer an overview ofthe Marshallese past in a local context that convey how these institutions are situated in the landscape ofMajuro and in the ordinary daily lives ofMarshallese people. Rather than focus on extemal portrayals ofMajuro (of which this work is yet another) that describe the islands relative only to foreign intetests, this chapter will represent Majuro and its past through a virtual tour of the atoll's contemporary sites, and their relevance to Marshallese history, politics, and lives. The introduction will highlight how institutions offoreign power intersect with local forms and sources ofauthority on specific plots ofland that have economically, and politically shaped the history of the Marshall Islands. This chapter offers a glimpse at these institutions, their histories, and 54 those who lead them, setting a framework for the issues ofland, power, chiefs, and colonial negotiations that are explored in later chapters. In small places every parcel ofland takes on incredible significance and meaning. In the smallest places, the intensity ofcollective relationships to land is even greatet. Centuries ofcommunities are metaphysically (symbolically/mentally) present on these coral atolls where residents claim they belong to their wafo or plot, rather than their wafo belonging to them (Tony deBrum 1994, interview with author). Where history is repeated and remembered in land -- its perpetual use -- ties to land, family, genealogies, and ways of living are long and deep. On 'outer islands' (i.e. peripheral to urban 'centers') histories of generations are embedded in the daily interaction with the land upon which multi generational families reside. On Majuro and Ebeye, the youthful urban centers where over 60% of all Marshallese reside, these histories are less visible. There, the continuity of traditional communal activities has been interrupted and replaced with a lifestyle less based on interaction with land, than construction upon it. The daily activities that occur on urban centers today differ remarkable from those that occurred only a few decades ago. History is created, recreated. tom down and rebuilt more rapidly than on any other plots ofland in the nation. Physical remains from earlier eras are often incorporated into contemporary relationships with land. For example, on Wo* Atoll, an atoll that served as an ait base for the Japanese in the early 194Os, residents relocated their village after World War II. The cemented areas that once served as hangars for Japanese planes had been bombed in neat rows by the United States beginning inI944. The large bomb craters offered plots in which 55 to plant trees in the midst of the cement parking lot. The homes are built upon the cement area, bordered by rows of coconut, breadfruit, pandanus and banana trees. In one particularly large crater uplifted slabs of broken cement encircle lush banana trees that surround a simple plywood home. Figure 25. Trees now grow in World War II bomb craters on Wotje Atoll. Figure 26. j\ Wotje resident rolls senrut in front of his home in the main village situated upon on the former Japanese hangar. 56 In examples like this, the past is tangible, yet, for the most part, the cultural significance of connections to land, clan, and history are largely intangible and certainly not readily accessible to visitors to overpopulated urban centers. Many of the first-time visitors to Majuro complain about the garbage, the densely populated areas, and the surprise of discovering a busy urban environment in the "middle ofthe nowhere." What I hope to convey in the contextual description of Majuro to follow is its feel, its part in the larger scheme of the Marshall Islands, and its connection with larger, dominant global powers. I hope to evince an appreciation for the rich, intangible histories that comprise place· according to local understandings and values. Each building constructed, each grave that is dug, is made on land that holds multiple meanings and memories. The land, its owners, its former inhabitants, the relations between owners and current inhabitants, gatherings held there -- each inch on such a small place is infused with memory and meaning, relationships to the past viewed and re experienced in the present. Layer upon layer ofmemories, like coral skeletons, constitute the Marshall Islands. In the description to follow I hope to create an appreciation for the apparent physical limitations ofatoll life, but consequently the nearly infinite possibilities of site specific meaning and memory-making that arise uniquely on a well-crowded, coral atoll. Creating a Space My description not only locates the atoll in the minds ofreaders, but in effect creates Majuro, given the general Western unfamiliarity with the nation or its capitol. Creating a space for alternative forms ofrepresentation is an equally formidable task. I attempt to write 57 in a less formal tone with accessible vocabulary, so that the people portrayed here will have a greater chance ofrecognizing themselves, their islands, and their way oflife. Pacific Islanders involved in academic pursuits very rightly claim that most ofwhat they read written by outsiders in not only inaccessible or irrelevant, but they often cannot even recognize themselves in these representations (Smith 1999). I don't presume to claim that my representation will coincide with local understandings. My hope is that my "thick" description (Geertz 1973) ofthis most thin place will be accessible and recognizable to the Marshallese community who call Majuro their home. MEJRO MEJIN ARMIJ Locating Majuro can be a challenging task; coral atolls appear as specks in the vast blueness ofmaps. Even Marshallese people acknowledge this difficulty with a sense of humor, and even irony. ''Where the Hell is Majuro?" t-shirts are commonly sold and worn around the nation. Dri-Mqjo/ [Marshallese people] are accustomed to the ignorance of outsiders about their region. The Marshalls' newspaper quips about the nation's identity problem in Washington D.C., where "American leaders and officials say informed things like, 'Marshall Islands? Where's that?'" (Marshall Islands ]o1lf1Ja/33(20): 10). It is generally more shocking to discover awareness instead ofignorance ofthe RMI. Mejro [Majuro, literally "many faces'l is an atoll well-known among Marshallese people for the many and diverse "faces" to be encountered there. Majuro is a gathering spot where people ofall clans, races, and nationalities intertwine. It is the place where Marshallese go to see and be seen. The ancient idiom, Mejro mejin armiJ [Majuro is the face 58 of the people] remains applicable today since Majuro is the capital and most populated atoll ofthe Republic ofthe Marshall Islands. Surrounded by ocean and lagoon, Majuro inspires its residents and its guesrs with a great variety of emotions, meanings, and memories. It's pleasures and pains are commemorated in many popular songs. By outsiders, Majuro has been described in terms ofits beauty, its gaudiness, its strategic location, its kind-hearted residents, and its leaders. A former Peace Corps volunteer once described Majuro as "an odd blend of Gauguin and K-mart... a place where you bounce from glory to squalor a dozen times a day, so often that you wonder ifthere isn't a linkage between the two, some weird symbiosis between lagoons and diapers, sunsets and beer cans" (Kluge 1991: 44, 46). Fanny Stevenson, the wife ofRobert Louis Stevenson, admiringly described Majuro as "a pearl ofatolls" (Browning 1972) during their travels through Micronesia a century earlier. In the one hundred years between these contrasting descriptions lies a history ofthree colonial administrations and finally, self-governing autonomy. Majuro - the ancient volcano, now coral atoll- has transformed for millennia, but the developments ofrecent decades appear most dramatic: "Everything is different now. Language has changed, culture has changed, people have changed, living has changed. Everything has changed. The ocean is still the same" (E. Latak, interview withJ. Walsh 1994). In the Beginning Geologists explain the formation ofatolls by describing the build-up of coral polyp skeletons in warm surface waters along the outer fringes ofan ancient sunken volcano. Marshallese descnbe their beginnings differently: 59 Long ago when all was water, Lwa, the uncreated, was alone in the sea. "M1JtmIJJ11I1JI," he said, and islands rose out ofthe water. "Mmmmmm," he said, and reefs and sandbanks were created. "Mmmmmm," he said, and plants appeared. Again he uttered the creative word, and birds came into being. Then Lowa made four gods for the four directions in the sky and a white gul1to fly encircling the heavens forever. Iroof drilik was the one who was to preside over the west, the land ofEb, and to be in charge oflife and increase and all living things.L~omranwas put in charge of the east. The people say he is the one "who twists the daybreak." Lrok was given the south and told to regulate the winds. Laliliktm is the north-man, who brings death. Then Lowa sent a man into the world whose name is forgotten. This man put all the islands in a basket (a big i woven of coconut leaves) and started to put them in order. He put the Carolines to the westward, where they are today, and arranged the Marshalls in two long chains in their proper order. One island fell out of the basket, but he did not stop to put it straight. This is Namodrik, which is still out of line. The last two to be put in their places were Jaluit and Ebon. Then he threw away the basket. It floated here and there in the ocean and then stopped and became the island named Kili. It is named this for the kilok that formed it. When Lwalooked down and saw that the world was now ready, he sent two tattooers into the island to mark every living thing with its own mark. And every plant and fish and bird, every animal, every man and woman beats these special marks today (Leach 1956). Lowa's creation is today known as the Republic of the Marshall Islands. The entire Republic consists of approximately seventy square miles ofland spread over either 750,000 square miles ofocean (RMI StatistualAbstracts 1996: 3) (Appendix A). The tota/land atea is approximately that ofWashington, D.C., or Ni'ihau, Hawai'i. The RMI is among the most urban (66%), youthful (over 42% ate under age fifteen) and densely populated ofall Pacific island nations (Connell 1991). Over thir(y-three thousand ofthe fifty thousand Marshall Islanders reside on less thanfive square miles ofland, on two of the total thirty-three coral atolls and islands that constitute the nation. These two sites ate Majuro Atoll (3.75 square 60 miles; 23,676 people) and Ebeye Island, Kwajalein Atoll (.14 square miles; approximately 100 people) (RMI Statistical Abstracts 2(00). I Marshall Islands I 180 I I J I I I I I I 10· N Latitude I _I ;:tl ~I ~I =1 g, !!ol ~I G"I Cj ~I I t N I Pacific Ocean KIRIBATI 200 i1es 1------,,--" 200 Kilometers Majuro 1,," "Mm .,; G11bert Islands KiJi /. 170· E Taongj" 0 J I s I a nds 0 .Bmar PIv1>onk . '. UjeJanl} Marshall 160" E LOngi ude MoJO! . OaroIin a Is. •KO$T~ FED RATED STATES OF MICRONI:' IA Figure 27. lap of the Marshall fslands. Source: www.discoveryschool.com _;-0. tr. . - "-:""",-,,:: -.-.' ------.j ~igure28. Map of Majuro Atoll (csu.edu Dirk Spennemann) o I Ul Majuro atoll is located approximately seven degrees north ofthe Equator. It consists of 65 islets, (the US Navy constructed a road that connects fourteen on the South 61 side); a lagoon area ofapproximately 113 sq. miles; and a land area of3.75 square miles (RMI Statistical Abstracts 1996: 4). It's largest islet, approximately one-half mile wide, is named after the atoll itself, as is the custom on most Marshallese atolls. Today, Majuro, Majuro, is called Laura - a tie to the US military code names assigned to the various islets during World War II. Legend claims actress Lauren Bacall as its inspiration, while Jarrej? was named Rita in honor of Rita Hayworth. In truth, each islet of the atoll was given a woman's name as code for the US Navy occupation ofFebruary 1944. Majuro was labeled, "Sundance." Laura o Figure 29. Map ofLaura, Majuro. N L t Laura is the original prehistoric settlement ofMajuro, and the largest islet of the atoll, located at its western end. Laura has been continuously occupied for over 2,000 years (Riley 1987:248). In 1947 Alexander Spoehr conducted research for an ethnography ofthe 7 Jarrej, sometimes spelled Darrit, is spelled Djarrot on the maps in this section reflecting a confusing array of non-standardized place-names. (See Appendix B) "Rita" is the military code-name and locally used title for the island once called Jarrej. 62 village (Majuro: A Village in the Marshall Islands), while the US Army initiated its settlement on the opposite, eastern end of the atoll in what they called D-U-D, for the three islands that comprise it Jarrej, Uliga, and Delap. In 1947, the entire Marshallese population of Majuro all in Laura village and Ronron, numbered between 837 to 1,214. fifty-five years later, Majuro's population is nearly twenty-five times that figure. Laura is a busy, productive village whose residents are still able grow local foods such as taro, breadfruit, papaya, pandanus to supplement imported staples ofrice and canned meats. In the early 1990s, 92% of the Marshallese diet depended upon imported foods (Kiste 1993:77). Schools, churches, small stores, family compounds in the midst of lush greenness, give this village at the farthest end of the Majuro road, a strong sense of community that is still tied to their land. Figure 30. Laura Beach. (photo courtesy of MIVA, ©2001.) 63 Today, Laura is (still) famous for its wide, lovely beach. Navy officers bragged that no other site in the Pacific had beaches as fine as Majuro's (US Navy Civil Adrninistration Handbook 1950:5) At low tide, it's common to find old coca-cola bottles, presumably from the many American soldiers who enjoyed the islands and beaches ofMajuro. Many celebrities came to the Majuro to entertain soldiers, among then Bob Hope, Betty Hutton, Frances Langford, Carol Landis, Jackie Cooper, Martha Tilton, and Jack Benny (US Navy Civil Administration Handbook 1950:7). Micronesia's longest road begins in Laura, continues for nearly thirty miles to end in Rita. Thirty miles ofpaved road connect islands once accessible by foot at low tide. Navy Seabees built the original roads that were later enhanced during the US administration of the islands. In places tills single long road exists on a band ofland less than ten yards wide, too narrow for flora -- lagoon on one side, ocean on the other. When the high waves come, the road is covered with debris. Today Laura is home not only to a vibrant Marshallese community, but also to a Chinese garment factory and housing compound. In 1997, the People's Republic of China (PRC) brought employees to Majuro where they were housed in a shelter in which they worked, ate, slept and played volleyball, unable to leave. The Marshall Islands had established relations with China in 1991. Its embassy opened in 1996. Fisheries agreements, economic assistance, development grants, and the garment factory are products ofthe accord between the two nations. Yet, disappointed by PRC funding, the RMI sacrificed its relationship with PRC to pursue ties with a generous Republic ofChina (ROC) that was desperately seeking international political recognition. 64 When the relationship with Taiwan was established in late 1998, and the PRe Embassy staff left Majuro, the garment workers were left behind to fend for themselves by selling plastic trinkets door-to-door to Marshallese consumers. Driving from Laura, eastward, vehicles are scarce and the road winds through jungle - a paved path lined with coconut, breadfruit, and flame trees. It is shady, cool, and quiet. Residents along the route sell local foods at small produce stands attended by their children, especially on Sundays, a favorite day for residents in the more crowded urban areas to drive out to Laura for picnics. Most often passengers to and from Laura sit in the back of a pick-up truck, enjoying the breeze and company during the hour-long drive from town. The communities that live in the twenty miles between Laura and the airport are small and scattered. Passing through Wo/fl and ./ljeltake, one passes a crook at the southern point ofthe atoll, and reaches a narrow stretch where the Japanese government built a commemorative monument at a site known as the Peace Pink. The cement walled structure erected in 1984 marks the violent conclusion of the Japanese colonial period in the Marshalls by honoring theJapanese and Marshallese who died during World War II. N 1 1 Figure 31. Map showing the location of the Japanese Peace Park Monument. 65 len an dri-]apan Uapanese times] A Japanese military presence in Micronesia began in 1914 when naval forces occupied the German administered Micronesian islands with British encouragement predicated by the Anglo-Japanese Alliance of 1902. Japan occupied all German islands north of the equator while Britain planned to control all German islands south of the equator (Fluker 1981: 37). By 1915, the Japanese created six administrative regions with main headquarters located on Truk (Chuuk) in the Carolines. The Japanese presence was significantly established long before the League of Nations mandated the islands to Japanese in 1920 - a result of the Versailles negotiations after Germany's defeat in World War 1. When Japan first entered the region in the late 1890s during German rule,Japanese shopkeepers and settlers bolstered German economic development. In the early 1900s the 66 most influential trading company in Micronesia was the Nanjro Bocki KabHsbikigaisba, the South Seas Trading Company, known as Nanbo or NBK. As a merger ofthe two most profitable trading companies in the region, Nanbo by 1913 controlled eighty percent of all trade in German Micronesia (peattie 1988: 24). With headquarters onJaluit Atoll in the Marshalls, they replaced the Germans in the copra trade and they worked to develop the larger Micronesian region. "Commercial fishing, inter-island mail, freight transportation, and passenger service, ... together provided the basis ofa commercial network that by World War I had gained a near monopoly oftrade in central and western Micronesia" (peattie 1988: 25). NBK is still in Micronesia today, although to a far less extent. The locals exchanged copra, turtle shell, and mother-of-pearl, which were sent to Japan for processing for cloth, axes, cooking utensils, weapons and liquor (peattie 1988: 21). A fascinating trend that developed through these interactions was the influx of Japanese nationals as trade and profits gradually increased. In 1915, there were only some 220 Japanese in Micronesia (Fluker 1981: 40). Another estimate is lower: "On the eve of World War I there were scarcely more than one hundredJapanese living in Micronesia, divided almost evenly between the western Carolines and the Marianas" (peattie 1988: 25). With either estimate, it is clear that the presence ofJapanese nationals in this early period was more limited than their economic success suggested. The incredible increase in Japanese population in Micronesia and the subsequent cultural influence were yet to be seen. In August of 1919 the recommendation of the Supreme Council ofAllied Powers that the former German islands north of the equator be awarded to Japan as a Class C 67 mandate was approved. Japan was required to demilitarize the territory (in contrast to the US possessions ofHawai'i, Guam, and the Philippines which were fully militarized) and its influence in the Pacific was strictly limited to Micronesia. The mandate was approved in December of 1920. In March of1922 the withdrawal ofJapanese naval garrisons was finally completed. The civil administration, known as the South Seas Bureau, or Nanyo-chO, maintained its capital at Koror in the Palau Islands and the governor's administrative responsibilities were divided into five departments. These were concerned with: local administration and public works; police, prisons, and sanitation; public revenue and taxation; commerce and industry; and communications including posts, telegraphs and shipping (Clyde 1935: 67 68). There were six branch offices located at Saipan in the Marianas, at Yap, Palau, Truk, and Ponape in the Carolines; and at Jaluit Atoll in the Marshalls. In the 1920's, the Japanese presence was further established as the government opened three-year schools, which taught Japanese language in the first through third grades. The Japanese, using native labor, also built roads, water catchments and harbors. life under the Mandate was systematic, well organized and efficiently administered, ifnot in accordance with the guidelines ofthe League ofNations' mandate. Discrepancies between Japanese self-interest and its mandate obligations, particularly in the areas of native education and labor, were obvious. Within five years, the Japanese population had grown from approximately two hundred in 1915 to nearly 4,000. By 1944, the Japanese population increased over 2000 percent to 77,980 while the Micronesian population increased by just under six percent during this same time period (Fluker 1981 :40). 68 Certainly this rapid)ncrease in Japanese migration did not reflect the intent ofthe League of Nations mandate. In fact, in the later years ofthe mandate, the population of the Japanese was so great that the League ofNations Commission on Mandates became concerned with possible annexation of the territory. The commission was also concerned with rumors ofJapanese militarization of the region. It was impossible to verify the rumors as foreigners were all but prohibited through bureaucratic means that required lengthy paperwork and the pre-approval ofall traders and merchants by Tokyo before entering the region. This inconvenience virtually halted all foreign trade and Western influence and also effectively limited external surveillance. Improvements in facilities to foster trade ultimately aided the Japanese in the military use ofthe islands. The administration systematically constructed docks, airstrips and roads that were used as stepping-stones for Japan's surprise attack on Pearl Harbor in 1941. There were very few defensive fortifications built, though the sturdily constructed school buildings were later used in this capacity. In fact, the greatest role Micronesia played in the war was its function as a way station that permittedJapan to dominate the Pacific. The militarization of the islands served as a successfulJapanese offensive, rather than as a defensive stronghold. The Japanese Peace Park memorial is a site for picnics, family parties, and late night drinking. Just a bit further down the road is a curve that marks the end of the Majuro runway, at which point the road follows just feet from the lagoon until one reaches the airport terminal and parking areas. 69 Amata Kabua International Airport N l .1 Figure 33. Map showing Majuro International airport approximately ten miles from Uliga. Approaching Majuro by air, particularly just before touching ground, is an act of faith. Looking from the window seat or across the aisles through the opposite window, one only views ocean - all land disappears. The experience, to me, is often surreal, having approached through this apparendy empty vast blueness of sky and sea, descending upon the extended airstrip that is the main road ofMajuro, and yet still surrounded by the open blue. Out ofthis, a fantastic, busding, urban metropolis emerges. The Majuro International Airport is named after the nation's first President and lrot?Jhphp Amata Kabua. The US Navy Seabees built the original airport on Delap, so Majuro could be a jumping off spot for people like John Glenn who flew the bombers that strafed Japanese-held atolls daily during 1943 and 1944. As larger and larger planes needed longer and longer runways, the current site was selected and enlarged with landfill so that by the 1970s Continental's Air Micronesia flights could safely land. Today, Air Mic and Aloha Airlines are the sole international commercial carriers in the Marshalls. Three return Air Mic island-hopper flights per week pause at Majuro while traveling between Guam and 70 Honolulu while Aloha operates one return flight between Majuro and Honolulu weekly. A large plane lands at least once a day, every day. Figure 34. Aerial view of Majuro (Delap, Uliga, Rita) Courtesy of David Huskins. ..~. ~:...-.-;.._"""~"~-.. '-'-~.~-~~~-'.~.-...,,=-,;~.----.:~,...~--=--.' Figure 35. Majuro from air just before landing. Ocean side at top, lagoon at bottom. Beyond serving as a site for the exchange of passengers, and the resources they carry, the airport is infonnation exchange central. It is a place to see and be seen, to send 71 and receive cargo, packages, coolers; to hangout and watch the foreign passengers briefly disembark before continuing West to Kwajalein, Kostae, Pohnpei, Chuuk, and Guam, or East to Honolulu; to watch restrained farewells and exuberant greetings, to witness American couples leaving with Marshallese children. It also makes visible the international travels ofRMI leaders who arrive and depart through the VIP lounge, separate from the other travelers. Airports have a central function in the redistribution ofresoutces and the maintenance ofcultutal and family ties to migrant communities. In my experience on Majuto, not a week goes by without two or more trips to the airport to see relatives off, to find someone to hand-carty a letter, to collect relatives or packages sent from relatives through friends, or to send a package for relatives through friends. Without actually going to the airport, the process of sending packages is a major part ofone's weekly activities gsthetingitems, finding a box, packing and taping them secutely, identifying people who are traveling, and finally meeting them at the airport for check in, then calling Honolulu to tell someone to meet the plane (at 2:30 am). Only Continental and Aloha airlines can document the incredible amount ofgoods exchanged daily on their Micronesian routes, and the crucial significance ofairports as sites ofglobal exchange. At the airport small handicraft businesses thrive, and on Saturday mornings the restaurant and bat are filled with hungry passengers and their retinue. "Where are you going? When will you return?" and "Will you hand-carty for me?" are followed by handshakes, not hugs, and goodbyes are proffered from dark glasses that hide private tears. 72 Figure 36. A farewell at Majuro airport. Loved ones are loaded with handicrafts and flowers for the journey. (Dennis, Komju, and Daisy Momotaro.) The main road down the atoll is only a very few feet narrower than the coral on which is sits; the road is particularly narrow where it parallels the airport runway. The runway is used to gather rainwater for the islands' residents, since rainfall is unpredictable (6-11 inches per month) and inconsistent from year to year. From the runway, it is pumped into a nearby reservoir to be used during water hours, when the Marshall Islands Water and Sewerage Company (MWSC) pumps highly chlorinated water to Rita at the far end ofthe atoll. Leaving the airport and continuing into town, one first passes the reservoir at the end of the runway, and then follows a green tree-lined route dotted with small take-out stores, apartments, video rentals, and a few restaurants. 73 Figure 37. The road in Long Island. Long Island Long Island is Majuro's suburban strip. Home to many American residents and Majuro elites, Long Island is green, fairly quiet, and offers an exceptional view ofthe 'unconnected' (by road) islands ofMajuro across the lagoon. It is a peaceful place away from the densely populated area of town. The US Embassy, its employees' luxurious (by Majuro standards) housing, and its private tennis courts are located here. As this part of the atoll began to develop into an American suburb of sorts, the larger grocery and retail stores opened businesses. In 1994, Robert Reimers Enterprises (RRE) established its stote in this area. Just across the street, on the lagoon side, Momotaro Corporation (operated by my Marshallese sponsor family, Dennis and Daisy Momotaro) followed suit and added a laundry mat. Further down the road, closer to Rairok, Gibson's opened it's own Quick Stop, a smaller version ofits main store in town. Residents no longer needed to drive to town to shop. The community in Long Island thus became a true suburb. 74 Figure 38. Figure 39. Robert Reimers Enterprises, Rairok. From Rairok toward town the population grows gradually more dense. At a very narrow juncture of islands, the dump begins on the oceanside, continuing as an extended wide stretch of landfill for approximately 3 miles. I f you stop to throw a bag of garbage 75 into the dump, often a group ofyoung children will offer to do the dirty task in return for a small payment-juon kwoda [one quarter]. Driving on, one passes the Stone House, a Japanese restaurant, (on the lagoon side) and the numerous signs with Chinese characters and English words advertising car rentals, take-out cuisine, and rooms for rent. The writing is distinctive, and the signs are evidence of the growing population of Chinese and Taiwanese nationals, including some who purchased RMI passports, and now reside on Majuro. Figure 41. Advertisements for foreign owned businesses. 76 Figure 42. Chinese operated take out store. Just past the Stone House lies the uninhabited home of Majuro's late lroo/iaplap, Joba Kabua, the older brother of Amata Kabua, son of Lejelon Kabua. In line with the custom of deference and silent respect toward chiefs, the road was diverged deliberately to prevent traffic from passing indiscreetly and disrespectfully in front of the lroo/s home. Joba's curyc 77 Manit [Custom] In traditional times, lro,!! (chiefs) commanded complete authority over the lives of the commoners, or kajur. Marshallese society consisted of royalty and commoners. The word kajur literally means 'strength,' emphasizing the mutual dependency ofchiefs and commoners. Within the lro'!J class existed various levels ofauthority, from the highest, an lro,!!laplap down to the Bwirak, the offspring ofan lro,!! (male) and a commoner woman. As a matrilineal society, Marshallese inherit their status and clan membership through their mothers. Female lro,!! (Lerotj) are the true holders ofthe authority that is delegated to brothers and sons to administer as lro'!J. Today, the word lroojis conflated with Christianity, since the first missionaries translated the term as Lord. Chiefly succession is based on historical understandings of the sacred origins of the islands, and the origins ofthe chiefs who are descendants ofcreator gods, and sacred sisters (pollack 1976). Unlike other Micronesian cultures, where structures for community gathering created a shared space for decision-making and discussion, the strict hierarchical structure ofpower in the Marshalls prevented formal communal decision-making. An lro,!!held ultimate power and could enforce his proclamations through the heads ofthe various family lineages on his land. Family lineage heads are generally men, since women typically designate administrative authority to their brothers. Alabs serve as liaisons between the chiefs and the commoners, limiting direct social interaction, and thus fostering the prestige and mystery ofchiefs. Ethno-historical accounts generally describe Marshallese chiefs as autocratic (Mason 1947; Spoehr 1949; Erdland 1914; Yanaihara 1939). lro,!!held the power oflife and death over the people who lived on their land. They were accorded extraordinary 78 deference, and commoners were only allowed to approach on their knees, heads as low to the ground as possible (Erland 1914, in Pollock 1976: 94). Respect for authority is no longer expressed by crawling, though lowered heads and postures are common in an Irooj's presence. The parents of a generation born fifty years ago taught their children to walk their bicycles when passing an Iroojs residence. When I was young, when we would ride our bikes past an Iroojs house, or ifwe were passing by with our friends, we would be very quiet, even stopping to walk our bicycles, as we neared his place. Our parents told us this was how to respect the Irooj, and we must not yell or scream or sing or play in front ofhis house. We couldn't eat anything or help ourselves to the food there either, since it was rude to eat the food from the chiefin front ofhis home ifhe didn't give it to you. When we passed his house and were far enough so that we couldn't be heard, we would resume our playing, or get back on our bikes (Dennis Momotaro, Interview withJ. WaIsh 1994). Today, these prohibitions are frequendy ignored or neglected. The curve at "Joba's place" has been redesigned to be less severe, given the number of fatal accidents that occurred at that curve over the years. Passing from Joba's former residence toward town, one crosses the highest point ofMajuro. Built with Japanese funds in 1983, the bridge stands twelve feet above sea level at high tide (Stanley 1994: 64) The bridge is a favorite recreational jumping spot for local teens; my former Assumption students were known for celebrating and surfing there and sometimes took me with them. Among other conveniences, the bridge offers fishermen a relatively safe, clear, and convenient southern passage to the ocean. Because Majuro'S only other ocean pass is situated in the northwest comer ofthe atoll, the bridge pass saves tremendous amounts oftime and gasoline for small boats heading south to Amo and MiJi. When continuing on toward town the family compound of the late President Amata Kabua lies on the iar [lagoon1shore just beyond the bridge. An impressive speed 79 bump rises directly in front of the shrub-shielded entrance. With the abundance of cars today on Majuro (and a dearth of bicycles), speed bumps have become an alternative means of ensuring respect and recognition. Besides their appearance in front of schools, they are constructed outside the homes of chiefs, government ministers, and some local businessmen. After the results of the 1991 elections were announced, three new speed bumps were immediately erected in front of senators' homes, to the surprise of Majuro drivers 8 • This speed bump's significance is collectively understood, though not frequently vocalized as in this contemporary illustration of proper behavior in front of a chiefs residence: When we pass Amata's place, I tell the children to put their snacks down when we are sitting in the back of the pick-up, and to be quiet until we pass. I want them to know to respect their Iroo) (R. K. interview with J. Walsh 1994). Figur 44. _..... --- The grave of lroqjlaplap and President Amata Kabua. 8 The new road project eliminated clips and speed bumps on the main road from town to the airport, except at schools 80 Just past Amata's place lies the "old new dock," distinguished from the "new old dock" in Uliga. Matson shipping container storage, an oil tank farm, the Chinese fishing base, and Tobolar, the copra processing plant are all situated along the old new dock, witness to international trade ofimported goods, and exported coconut products and fish. Like airports, docks are significant sites of intersection with regional and international commodities, forces, and institutions. Figure 45. Chinese fishing base at new old dock, Majuro The incredible volume of trade goods entering the Marshall Islands is clearly evidenced in its increasing trade imbalance. Over the past decade, annual RMI export revenue has paid for only ten to twenty percent ofthe nation's imports (US Census Bureau data in Marshall Islands Journal 33:19:11, 32; Economist 364(8282): 34) In 2000, the RMI spent $60 million on imports and earned $8 million in exports; the following year was more typical -- the RMI exports totaled $5.5 million and imports totaled $26.6 million (US Census Bureau data in Marshall Islands Journal 33:19:11,32). I have yet to see an economic 81 report that documents US benefits from the dependency enabled by the Compacts ofFree Association. In the Gertnan era, copra skewed trade tallies in the Marshalls' favor while copra- makers thrived on the revenue earned from this primary cash crop. After World War II, the Marshalls' desire to hold tight to its exceptional copra income and Kwajalein taxes led to its separation from the rest ofthe Trust Territory in the 1970s and separate Compact negotiations. Copra and Tobolar According to legend: Tobolar was born ofwoman, but different from all other offspring. He was small and green; his eyes and mouth were close together - a coconutl Tobolar was the first coconut tree. His older brother was jealous ofthe attention their mother, Limokare, gave to Tobolar. But Tobolar promised the mother that although he looked strange he would be the most useful ofall his siblings. He would be eaten, worn and used, by the entire world (Downing et al. 1992). The bounty ofthe coconut is not only evident in the multiple and varied useful products that are critical to life on islands, but also its ability to provide producers with access to imported resources. Copra links family histories, economics, traditional politics and tributes with foreign markets, commodities, and imported goods. The generous Tobolar is a tremendous resource, even in a declining twenty-first century oil market. Tobolar is the name ofthe government owned, yet privately operated, processing plant for dried coconut meat, or copra. Copra has played a long and integral role in the culture and history ofthe Marshall Islands and remains one of the few cash crops for Marshallese people. The RMI on average produces 5000 tons of copra per year, but weather conditions and shipping impact that figure as in 1995 and 1999 which resulted in 82 levels ofproduction that were the highest and lowest in over fifty years -- 7000 and under 3300 tons, respectively (Asian Development Bank Meto 2000:121). Tobolar is heavily subsidized by the RMI national government at nearly one percent of the national GNP in order to redistribute funds to outer island communities; even so, the average price per pound in 2000 was fifteen cents. Contemporary copra makers earn approximately twelve cents per pound once Tobolar deducts shipping costs from outer atolls and subtracts tributes for 11'00/ and alab shares. i L Tobolar Copra Processing Authority The formula for dividing profits among 11'Oq;; alab, and drijcrbal [workers, formerly kty"utj has its basis in the traditional tribute systems that allowed a German administration to collect taxes, paid for in copra, through Marshallese chiefs. Because a head tax paid for by individuals would be difficult to determine and collect, tax districts based on traditional land divisions were required to produce a set amount of copra as tax per year. In order to ensure the tax was collected, the copra produced during the first half of the year went 83 toward paying the German tax. lbe lrolJ/ were responsible for its collection, and they received a share (approximately one-third) ofthe collected copra tax in return. The dri-jcrba! kept and sold all copra produced in the second half ofthe year, according to German regulations, with no lrolJ/ tributes or shared deducted. The German Era In 1860, three years after the first foreigners -- American Protestant missionaries - had settled in the Marshalls, Adolph Capelle, a German, opened the first copra trading station on Ebon, the southernmost atoll in the Marshall Islands. This was the beginning of a period ofeconomic development in the Marshalls, led mainly by German traders. The Germans paid Marshall Islanders German marks to plant coconut trees in rows on their wafo and to dry and store copra. In return, Marshallese purchased clothes and iron tools. By 1886 Germany annexed the Marshalls in an effort to expand its global influence. The German government administered the islands through a German trading company, the Jaluit Gessellsch'!ft that held a monopoly on trade. When the Spanish-American war ended in 1898 and Spain's Pacific territory was divided, Germany purchased the Carolines and Northern Marianas from Spain for $4.5 million to expand its foothold in Micronesia beyond the Marshalls (Hezel1983: 8). The remaining Spanish holdings in the Pacific, the Philippines and Guam, were ceded to the United States. As German influence and economic interests in whaling and copra grew stronger in 1898, missionaries and government officials settled in the region. Initially, German administrators and traders expelled the few Japanese nationals they found trading in the newly acquired islands of the Carolines and Northern Marianas. Later the Japanese were 84 allowed to return and resume their former activities, as their experience and efficiency were found to benefit and stimulate economic activity. In the early 1900's the German government, primarily motivated by economic gain, took over direct administration of the islands. The introduction ofmoney into the subsistence economy and the establishment of the copra trade were the greatest influences of the German period. All ofMicronesia except Guam remained under German occupation and administration until the advent ofWorld War I in 1914. The practice of dividing copra profits three ways persists today. During the post World War II US Trust Territory, courts upheld the breakdown with lrooj copra shares set at six percent, and the alab and driierba/ combined shares at ninty-four percent (Spennemann 2000c). On Likiep Atoll where Adolph Capelle and Anton deBrum established a copra plantation, the division of profits between landowners and driierbal, known as kanab on Likiep, was fifty-fifty. Landowners had the responsibility ofproviding tools, paying copra shipping fees, and medical expenses for the workers. As recent as 1996, this division was publicly contested when Likiep workers supported by the eldest surviving deBrum family member attempted to alter the arrangement for all ofLikiep so that the "Iroof' share was , set at one cent per pound, rather than fifty percent ofthe total (11/22/96 MIJ: 1,15).9 Continuing past Tobolor and the dock and storage areas, past The Pub, Majuro's famous nightspot, and proceeding along a slight curve, the Capitol building gleams in the distance like Oz at the end of the yellow-brick road. This is the beginning ofthe area of 9 Other descendenrs of Capelle and deBrwn opposed this effort 85 Majuro known as D-U-D, an abbreviated reference to the three main islands connected by the US Navy at the close ofWorld War II: Delap, Uliga, and Darrit/Jarrej. Figure 47. Map of Majuro. Shaded area shows Delap, Uliga, and Jarrej (Rita). D-U-D Because this area is so densely populated and the central institutions of government, power, authority, are so intimately connected within this short area, I will tum and return to D-U-D throughout the course ofthis dissertation. The briefintroduction and description provided here are intended only to offer a feel of the area, and an overview of the loci ofpower as experienced in daily life on Majuro. But first, it is important to stress that most Marshallese do not use the term "D-U- D". It is more common to hear each island identified by name. The US military and civilian administration coined the term to refer to the location ofits administrative and housing district. Following local custom, I will identify particular islands when possible. I prefer to call the center of trade, commerce, government, and population "town," rather than use the older acronym. 86 Figure 49. 87 AnivalofAmericans Delap, Uliga, and Jarrej (Rita] became "D-U-D" as a result ofthe arrival ofwaves ofAmerican pilots on February 1, 1944. US interest in the Marshalls was responsible for the preliminary taking ofTarawa Atoll, one of the bloodiest battles ofWorld War II in late November 1943. Once taken, the lessons learned in the horrible slaughter of US Marines. landing on coral reefs in that battle enabled the Marshalls to be overcome twice as fast and with half the casualties ofTarawa (Alexander 1993:14). Majuro was selected as the site for a base from which to bomb and strafe the Japanese-held Marshall Island atolls, a safer strategy than approaching them directly from sea as had occurred at Tarawa atoll. The necessary airstrip was immediately built along the widest portion ofDelap. (See Figure 51). Subsequently, Majuro lagoon was filled with naval units, including submarines. Majuro played a significant role in the Pacific Theatre in that it allowed an initial base from which to venture out for aerial attacks on Japanese held atolls in the Marshalls, and from there, as stepping stones across the region to Japan, in a reversal ofthe process the Japanese military used to attack Pearl Harbor three years prior. The crucial runway at Delap led to the establishment ofmilitary headquarters on Majuro and the necessity of providing infrastructure to support the personnel and equipment housed on the atoll. The Army selected Uliga as the locale for administration and housing, then relocated the few island residents not already living there to Majuro village (Laura) at the far west end of the atoll. 88 1. Dep;l;ndont.s Jlna 2. PlaT........ 3. _. I>d1ding 4. GallO)' 5. C